Gortyna, the mother of written laws in the West

Crete , the jewel of the Mediterranean, is renowned for its golden beaches, picturesque villages, and landscapes that seem like paintings. But among the most fascinating and lesser-known destinations, one stands out, embodying the power of Cretan history, culture, and nature: Gortyna .

In the heart of the fertile Messara plain, in the southern part of the island, is a place that has resisted time, its ruins emerging with a solemn and magnetic aura, a living testimony to the grandeur of a past that has profoundly influenced the identity of the territory.

A forgotten capital, the beating heart of antiquity

Few today remember that Gortyna was once the true capital of Crete . Beginning in 67 AD, under the Roman Empire, the city enjoyed an era of splendor that lasted for nearly a thousand years. It was a prominent economic, cultural, and religious center, home to three major markets, two impressive aqueducts, five theaters, and a series of carved stone temples and mausoleums.

During the Augustan period, it assumed a central role in the political and administrative map of the Empire: it embodied the grandeur of Rome but also the refinement of Cretan civilization, a fascinating combination that is still reflected in the architectural and artistic remains scattered throughout the area. And while Augustus indulged in reforms and banquets, the city grew and became a "living laboratory" of culture and law.

Walking among the ruins, the first element that catches the eye is undoubtedly the Cathedral of San Tito , which dominates the landscape: built with carved stone and enriched with architectural elements of rare elegance, in addition to representing a place of worship, it is a point of connection between the spiritual soul of the island and its thousand-year-old tradition.

Continuing east, you'll find an open-air gallery of statues, inscriptions, and sculptures that tell the stories of gods, emperors, and citizens: Roman art blends with Hellenic taste, creating a collection that enchants and surprises.

But it is impossible not to stop in front of the Ancient Theatre , built in the 10th century, right in front of the Conservatory: once a stage for dramas and songs, it maintains its charm intact, as if the voices of actors and musicians still echoed among its steps.

The Great Inscription, a code for understanding the ancient world

Gortyn 's true masterpiece, however, is a document carved in stone, a monument to thought and civilization: The Great Inscription .

It is a comprehensive collection of laws, engraved on large limestone blocks arranged in four rows, forming twelve columns packed with regulations. Each column contains over fifty lines , covering family law, inheritance, divorce, adoption, as well as crimes, commercial transactions, and personal freedoms.

It is the oldest legislative code in the Western world, a sort of constitution ante litteram that allows us to discover the mentality of a civilization that, although distant in time, addressed issues that are still relevant today.

Nature and legend under the evergreen plane tree

But Gortyn is not just stone and history: near the ruins stands an evergreen plane tree that defies the seasons and remains lush even in the coldest months.

Its shadow is filled with inspiration and legends, a perfect stop for a moment of reflection or to be lulled by the magic of a suspended time.

The charm of the surroundings

A short distance from Gortyna, a glimpse of paradise opens up: Lendas , a small seaside resort where time seems to slow down, and the sea becomes a mirror for the soul. The crystal-clear waters and quiet beaches offer a fitting end to a day spent amidst the glories of the past.

Finally, if your appetite for history is still alive, you can venture to the Praetorium , an imposing 1,000-square-meter building that once housed Roman officials. Walking among its ruins inspires a sense of respect and wonder. Nearby, the remains of the Temple of Apollo and a small theater bring to light fragments of a cult that has left its mark over the centuries.