Hiking in the Harz Mountains: The best alternatives to the Brocken

It is the highest mountain range in Northern Germany, located at the intersection of Lower Saxony , Saxony-Anhalt , and Thuringia , and is a popular holiday destination in Germany : the Harz Mountains . The highest peak in the region, at 1,141 meters, is the Brocken. Those who don't take the Brocken Railway from Drei-Annen-Hohne, the 19-kilometer ride through the national park, can also climb the summit on foot.

Particularly popular are the approximately nine-kilometer-long Goethe Trail from Torfhaus and the trail from Schierke via the Brocken Road. The roads are often quite crowded.

If you'd like to explore other hiking trails in the Harz Mountains, there are plenty of options. We'll share long-distance trails as well as half-day and full-day tours that take hikers to places worth seeing – including spectacular viewpoints.

From the Rotestein viewpoint, hikers gaze out over the Rappbode Dam—and, in good weather, enjoy a panoramic view across the Upper Harz Mountains to the Brocken peak. Beginner hikers are well-placed here, as the point on the southeast shore of the Rappbode Dam reservoir is easily accessible.

The best starting point for a hike is the parking lot in front of the Stemberghaus charcoal kiln. From there, hikers cross the B81 federal highway and follow the signposted hiking trail for about two kilometers to the Rotestein.

It's a true highlight in the Harz Mountains: the 483-meter-long Titan RT suspension bridge over the Wendefurth Dam reservoir. It's one of the longest pedestrian suspension bridges in the world – and at 458.5 meters, it has arguably the longest free-span section of any bridge of its kind.

Anyone who wants to experience this action on a hike can do so on a very beautiful trail from Hasselfelde . It also runs along the pumped-storage power plant, over the Wendefurth dam, and along the slope path. The last stop before returning to Hasselfelde is the Stermberghaus-Köhlerhütte (charcoal-burning hut). A lovely circular hike.

Titan RT opened in 2017.

Source: Dreikommazwei

On this hiking trail, you'll need to keep an eye out for witches on brooms for orientation—welcome to the Harz Witches' Trail! It leads 150 kilometers through the Harz Mountains.

Hiking enthusiasts will experience untouched nature, panoramic views, rare animals and plants, and evidence of mining history. The main route runs in five stages from Osterode over the Brocken to Thale, but you can also take one of two alternative routes south or hike just part of it. We'll tell you about three beautiful stages as an alternative to the Brocken climb.

Important note : Please note that fallen trees or work in the forest can lead to road closures and route changes. Current information can be found, for example, on the Harz National Park website . Current information and closures in the Harz region are also listed at " touren.harzinfo ."

Always keep an eye out for the witches – they show the way on the Harz Witches’ Trail.

Source: imago images/Shotshop

1. Alternative: Brocken bypass

If you're already familiar with the Brocken or want to avoid the crowds, choose the southern bypass route. It's slightly longer than the actual climb. Starting in Torfhaus, the stage takes you over the Oderteich pond, home to Germany's oldest dam. It also passes through St. Andreasberg and Braunlage. Near Königshütte, it returns to the main route of the Harz Witches' Trail.

2. The Köhlerpfad: Bypassing the Rappbode Dam

The southern bypass of the Rappbode Dam has hardly any inclines, unlike the main route of the Harz Witches' Trail, with its short but steep sections. The trail runs between Hasselfelde and Altenbrak along the Charcoal Burners' Path. Information panels, various types of charcoal kilns, relics along the trail, and the Stemberghaus Charcoal Burning Museum vividly showcase the old Harz charcoal-burning craft.

Hasselfeld is a climatic health resort in the heart of the Harz Mountains. This district of the town of Oberharz lies between the Bode and Rappbode dams.

Source: IMAGO/Zoonar

And number three, you ask? Read the next point...

The eight-kilometer-long Bode Valley Hiking Trail is part of the Harz Witches' Trail. This stage leads from Altenbrak or Treseburg to Thale. The highlight is the Bode Valley with its sometimes bizarre rock formations on both sides of the Bode River. The Bode Valley has been a nature reserve since 1937, so hikers can experience pristine habitats for many rare animal and plant species.

You can also climb the Hexentanzplatz from Thale. You'll need to allow an additional 45 minutes for this. The climb is steep at times through the oak forest. From the top, you'll have impressive views of the gorge and the rock formations. Alternatively, you can take the cable car.

A hiker looks from the Hexentanzplatz towards the Bodetal.

Source: imago images/Thomas Eisenhuth

The Oker River rises at approximately 910 meters on the Bruchberg and flows north through the Upper Harz Mountains. The area is best explored on a 10-kilometer circular trail, which rewards some steep climbs with panoramic views of the Oder Valley.

The trail starts at the edge of Oker, from where it follows the riverbank to the Adlerklippe cliff. A few meters along the B498 federal highway, it reaches a small reservoir. From there, a small wooden bridge leads to Engagement Island in the Oker River. The trail continues up the eastern mountain slope with a view of the Romkerhall Waterfall, which plunges almost 70 meters into the depths. After another climb, hikers reach the Kästeklippen cliffs on the 605-meter-high Huthberg. From there, the trail descends back to Oker.

Tip: If you don't want to experience the Oker River as a mere trickle, avoid hiking in the dry summer. The Oker Dam catches the water and regulates its flow. It's better to hike in spring, fall, or winter. Important: Wear sturdy footwear and surefootedness if you attempt the circular hike.

In the footsteps of the former division of Germany: The Harz Border Trail leads 75 kilometers through the Harz Mountains – the route follows the “Green Belt,” the former inner-German border between East and West.

Those who hike there will sometimes hike through dense forest and sometimes on concrete along the former patrol path of the GDR border troops. The climb to the Brocken is also included. The summit was off-limits to civilians during the Cold War, as troops from the GDR and the Soviet Union were stationed there.

On the border path through the Harz Mountains: Hikers repeatedly come across remains of the border installations, information boards and memorials.

Source: imago images / Panthermedia

From Stapelburg, hikers continue along the Eckertalsperre (Ecker Dam) – through whose middle the border also ran – up to the Brocken. Past the Triangular Post, a historic tri-border stone, the trail continues below Wurmberg to the memorial stone marking the opening of the border between Braunlage and Elend. They can stop at the open-air border museum near Sorge. On the way toward Walkenried Monastery, hikers also pass the Ring of Remembrance and the tri-border stone at Jägerfleck near Benneckenstein.

It's arguably one of the most romantic hiking trails of all: The Liebsbank Trail has been leading around the spa town of Hahnenklee-Bockswiese in the Harz Mountains since 2007. It leads across meadows, through forests, and past lakes. Along the trail, 25 individually designed wooden benches, dedicated to special romantic events, invite you to linger and enjoy the view.

The Gustav Adolf Stave Church in the Hahnenklee-Bockswiese district is one of the many highlights on the circular hiking trail.

Source: imago images/Peter Schickert

A visit to the Hamburg coat of arms is a must-see on any holiday in the Harz Mountains. This is arguably the most spectacular section of the Devil's Wall, a 20-kilometer-long sandstone rock formation. It never fails to impress with its rugged cliffs and rock towers that soar into the sky. The three imposing battlements of the Hamburg coat of arms actually resemble the Hanseatic city's real coat of arms.

A woman walks towards the Hamburger Wappen, part of the Teufelsmauer, near Timmenrode.

Source: imago images/Dieter Mendzigall

For a hike along the Devil's Wall, the Harz Devil's Wall Trail, a good 24 kilometers long, runs from Ballenstedt to the Hamburg coat of arms near Timmenrode. Those who don't want to spend as much time walking can also park in Timmenrode.

Above the Harz town of Neustadt rise the ruins of the almost 900-year-old Hohnstein Castle . It is one of the largest and best-preserved castle ruins in the Harz Mountains. From a ruined tower, accessible by an iron staircase, visitors enjoy a magnificent view of the Harz landscape and the Kyffhäuser Mountains.

The ruins of the approximately 900-year-old Hohnstein Castle in the Harz Mountains.

Source: IMAGO/Wirestock

Hiking trails are signposted from the parking lots around Neustadt, and a beautiful 11-kilometer circular trail through forests and scenic views also leads to the Nordhausen drinking water reservoir. From the old town, the " blue x " trail leads through Burgstrasse, where the steep ascent begins.

The trail then heads east through the forest to Gretchens Ruh, a meadow for women's rest, and then over Graseberg to Alte Poststraße. From there, take the green-marked hiking trail to the dam. Hikers then cross the Krebsbach stream toward the tarmac path on the eastern bank. From there, the "red x"-marked trail leads past the Heinrichsburg ruins back to Neustadt. A beautiful circular hike.

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