It was my first time at Art Basel – this is what happens at the art fair

Art Basel in Basel: This is what I experienced on my first visit to the art fair.

Katharina Grosse, wearing a brilliant white two-piece suit, stands amidst her monumental artwork on Basel's exhibition square, giving a guided tour. It's Wednesday morning, shortly after 10:00 a.m., and the sun, already at 24 degrees Celsius, reflects the German artist's magenta graffiti. The swathes of color that stretch across the grounds obscure the last three letters of the Art Basel logo on the facade of Exhibition Hall 2, behind whose walls art worth millions of euros is exhibited.

The Messeplatz project is like a showcase that even passersby without a ticket can see. The sight is quite unique, because after the seven days of the fair, the paint is completely removed from the asphalt. I'm actually already late to the party , because the most important visitors are already at the Art—as the trade fair is often abbreviated—on Monday and Tuesday. How early you are granted access is crucial. I'll be hearing more about that in the coming days. The exclusive preview days are regulated by a tiered VIP system, topped by the so-called "First View Pass." Today, Wednesday, is "Vernissage Day," before the fair opens its doors to all visitors on Thursday. Even the "regular" day ticket has a hefty price tag of approximately 73 euros.

On Wednesday morning, the main entrance is bustling with activity. Old and young are out and about, suits, linen shirts, and summer dresses flutter in the breeze, American English echoes across the square. People are on the phone, laptops are on their laps, or coffee cups are in their hands. Behind the fair's main entrance, you enter the "Unlimited" section, which primarily features large-format works that wouldn't fit in the gallery booths. These impressive works also find their way onto social media; on Instagram, I keep seeing "Unlimited" artworks like Martin Kippenberger's "METRO-Net" subway entrance pop up.

After passing through security and ticket checks and the gigantic hall rising before me, I have to pause for a moment. The first thing that catches my eye is Marinella Senatore's festive lettering, "We Rise by Lifting Others," and I think it's a good motto for the week. Steel tinsel angels by Thomas Schütte hang above it. I get chatting with a young artist from New York who, like me, writes about the fair, and with an 87-year-old woman from Zurich who still paints every day. Art Basel seems to be a must-see for everyone.

As I leave the hall, a young man approaches me, wearing only silver briefs. Only later do I learn that it's part of Félix González-Torres' performance work "Untitled" (Go-Go Dancing Platform). The price at Hauser & Wirth Gallery is €16 million. It's even hotter outside now, and my eyes have to adjust to the bright sunlight before I head toward Hall 2. This is where the galleries and other sectors, such as Statements and Premiere, are located, with several thousand people milling through their winding display areas every day.

Like the eye of a storm, a circular courtyard sits in the center, offering fresh air, a champagne bar, and small dining options. Even at 30 degrees Celsius, you can sit comfortably under tall trees; a bottle of water costs six francs. The architecture alone makes this a place for encounters—whether fleeting or for major deals. A recurring snippet of conversation here is: "Have you been to XY?" I, too, spot familiar faces in the crowd, engage in a similar conversation, and treat myself to a glass of champagne. After all, I don't have anything to sell today. The first few days of the fair are the most important and are already over. This year, a Cologne gallery owner tells me, things are going so-so . Buyers from the US are staying away, and there are fewer visitors than usual from Asia, too. A certain tension hangs in the air; after all, the galleries are taking a financial risk with the fair.

The actual fair is just the tip of the iceberg. There are seven satellite fairs and dozens of events in and around Basel. Liste , formerly "The Young Art Fair," has been around since 1996 and presents young artists from up-and-coming galleries. For anyone new to the art business, these formats outside of the main fair can be particularly interesting, as they are more accessible and the tickets are more affordable.

After just one day, my assessment is this: I had breakfast next to Katharina Grosse and stood behind Yayoi Kusama in the entrance line at the Fondation Beyeler. This was also my first time there, and since I arrived late for an artist talk, I had the permanent collection and the new exhibition by Latvian artist Vija Celmins almost entirely to myself. A magical moment I hadn't expected.

Arguably Basel's most exclusive hotel is the "Les Trois Rois," located directly on the banks of the Rhine. On the large terrace and down on the quay, people in cocktail dresses are smoking. The "Basel Social Club," which is located on Ritterstrasse this year, is also said to be a good late-night destination. I won't be able to make it there, as I'm opting for a party hosted by three young galleries on my last evening, taking place on the banks of the Rhine in the courtyard of an architecturally impressive apartment building. No champagne flutes, but beer and wine poured from ice buckets. Afterwards, I head to a dance bar in Kleinbasel, where I recognize many faces I've encountered over the past few days at the bar.

On Wednesday evening, Summer Night takes place on the Vitra Campus in Weil am Rhein. Countless guests gather on the expansive grounds around Jean Prouvé's iconic gas station. We watch the sunset from a hilltop and look out over the gardens of landscape architect Piet Oudolf—another item I can cross off my bucket list. From a large stage, the art (and design ) crowd dances into the balmy summer night to several DJ sets.

Day two gets crowded. It's the first day open to the public. I check out two other sideshows – Photo Basel and Africa Basel – and in the evening attend the Art Basel Awards reception at the Kunstmuseum, a format taking place for the first time this year and intended to honor visionary minds in the art world. Among those speaking on stage are Art Basel CEO Noah Horowitz, and many high-profile figures in the audience include Basel fair director Maike Cruse, Berlin collector Karen Boros, and Hans Ulrich Obrist, artistic director of the Serpentine Gallery in London. The event demonstrates that Art Basel has little to do with the small fair founded 55 years ago by Swiss gallerists, but operates as an international corporation that, in addition to editions in Paris , Miami , and Hong Kong, announced a new fair in Qatar a few weeks ago.

Only once did I encounter a counter-demonstration at the main entrance to the fair. A small group of activists, wearing masks, danced to Lady Gaga's "Bad Romance" and twirled paper money through the air. Otherwise, I noticed surprisingly little opposition in the city, although social injustice is likely an issue in Switzerland as well. It makes me think that some of my acquaintances rent apartments from locals for the week of the fair, who temporarily leave their homes to take the lucrative proceeds with them—a common practice I'm familiar with from the Munich Oktoberfest.

It's a real challenge keeping track of all the events at Art Basel, and latent FOMO is my constant companion. On day three, the sheer volume of impressions finally overwhelms me, and I realize I can barely take anything in. I decide to leave the fair alone and jump into the Rhine with a friend. It's now over 30 degrees Celsius. Like the locals in Basel, we float a good kilometer downstream, our clothes packed in a waterproof bag. Living in Berlin, I can hardly believe my luck with the inner-city coolness.

And: I was also surprised that even as a "normal person" at Art Basel, you can quickly strike up a conversation – with artists, dealers, or curators. Even though the gallery staff have a trained eye and can quickly recognize whether there's serious interest in a marble sculpture for 800,000 euros, you can still exchange ideas, make contacts, or simply have a pleasant chat. I will fondly remember the brief encounters and small discoveries. The fact that you can reach almost everything on foot in Basel also contributes to the atmosphere. In three days, I cover a total of 60,000 steps and am very relieved that I hadn't even considered choosing uncomfortable shoes.