Why Derma Rollers Are the Scalp Care Secret Experts Swear By

Rolling hundreds of tiny needles over your scalp might not sound like the best use of free will, but there’s a secret weapon beauty experts and enthusiasts swear by for healthier, fuller hair. Enter derma rollers: a small handheld device that’s covered in microneedles. Sounds intimidating, but once rubbed through your scalp, they ultimately create a pathway for topical products to penetrate deeper and more effectively.

However, before you jump on the derma rolling bandwagon, there are a few important rules you should know. Board-certified Trichologist Mika Smith advises, “consulting with a dermatologist first, especially if you have underlying scalp concerns or excessive hair loss.” Of course, derma rollers can’t be chosen at random and require some understanding of needle sizing and depth. “Choosing the right derma roller to use at home involves selecting a device with medical-grade stainless steel titanium needles between 0.25 mm and 0.5 mm, which are ideal for safe scalp penetration without causing any damage to the skin,” Smith adds.

Honestly, the process might feel a little uncomfortable for some, but the results make it worth it. If you’re ready to go, we talked to a trichologist about how to correctly use a derma roller, the best ones on the market, and the science-backed benefits they offer.

Nothing about the derma rolling process is glamorous. According to Smith, “Derma rolling works by creating micro-injuries that stimulate blood flow, collagen production, and growth factor activity, which supports and encourages hair regrowth.” Since you’re creating microscopic punctures in your scalp, a light hand is necessary. When using, “gently roll over a clean scalp in horizontal, vertical, and diagonal motions (five to 10 passes) on the scalp,” Smith adds.

What makes derma rolling so appealing is its effectiveness. Products that would normally have difficulty penetrating the scalp barrier can reach deeper layers for better results. For added value, the process can also curb hair loss and other issues. “Derma rolling can support hair regrowth over time with consistent use and proper hygiene in early stages of thinning and mild androgenetic alopecia,” Smith explains.

Smith recommends this entry-level option for beginners. This kit features a pre-sterilized 0.25mm roller that provides effective stimulation while minimizing discomfort for first-time users. The included protective storage case helps maintain hygiene between sessions to prevent contamination.

If hair growth is your main concern and priority, this derma roller is the tool that will serve those needs. With 1200 stainless steel medical-grade needles, this device ensures your hair serums and growth products penetrate your scalp immediately and effectively. The optimal needle configuration creates the right amount of micro-channels to maximize absorption without causing excessive trauma to the scalp.

This derma roller, although initially meant for the face, can be used on your scalp as well. Designed with 192 titanium grade micro needles, 0.5mm long, it helps with cell turnover and the release of growth factors to enhance scalp health and stimulate hair growth.

For those prioritizing hygiene and usability, this Amazon bestseller is designed with ergonomic handles so it’s easier to navigate the curves of your scalp while maintaining consistent pressure. Plus, the tool features individual titanium needles that are not only more durable but also easier to thoroughly sterilize, which reduces the risk of scalp infections.

Getting your scalp prepped before your derma rolling routine is key. This starts with a hydrating shampoo and conditioner before you begin. However, Smith advises that you also need to let your scalp recover post-derma rolling.

“For most home-use rollers, wait six to eight hours after using a 0.25 mm roller and wait 12 to 24 hours after using a 0.5 mm roller to avoid possible irritation. It is recommended to use the 0.25 mm needles every other day and two to three times per week with 0.5 mm needles.” From here, you can use your preferred oils and serums to cap off your derma rolling routine.

Who said hyaluronic acid was only made for the skin? This shampoo from industry-loved brand Cerave proves the popular ingredients can work wonders for hair, too. The innovative formula contains skin- and hair-loving ingredients that help maintain moisture in both the scalp and hair, delivering the same hydrating experience typically reserved for your skin care routine.

Your conditioner should never feel heavy on your scalp, especially before beginning your derma rolling routine. Briogeo’s Super Moisture Conditioner is a weightless formula that strengthens and hydrates your hair for noticeably healthier strands after each use.

If you’re prone to a tender scalp and experience any irritation or soreness, this serum is designed to protect sensitive skin. Even better, it invigorates the scalp to promote length, enhance strength, and improve moisture retention.

This intensive treatment from the brand packs a punch, thanks to salicylic acid and antioxidant-rich green tea extract. It’s designed to soothe, refresh, and create the perfect balance for the scalp post-microneedling.

Mika Smith is a board-certified trichologist and serves as the Senior Educator & Product Evaluator Manager at Aunt Jackie’s.

As a leading publisher of fashion, lifestyle, and beauty content, ELLE.com is committed to highlighting the best products in various categories by personally testing the latest and most innovative products, interviewing countless experts, and vetting customer-loved items. For this piece, ELLE contributor Stixx Mathews consulted a trichologist to learn about the benefits of derma rollers for hair growth.

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