A New Wave of Hair Growth Treatments Has Arrived

Dealing with hair loss at any stage of life is stressful—but thankfully, there are more treatment options than ever. Minoxidil has been the gold standard in hair loss treatment for years, while natural alternatives like rosemary oil have recently become go-to options for supporting hair growth. Now, a new wave of ingredients is cropping up in popular hair growth shampoos, conditioners, serums, and more—backed by growing research.

Before starting any hair loss treatment plan, it’s best to consult a dermatologist to better understand the root cause of your shedding. Factors like genetics, nutritional imbalances, and even everyday styling can play a role. Tight hairstyles that pull at the hairline and scalp can lead to traction alopecia—a common type of hair loss—over time.

This largely depends on its underlying cause. Dermatologists often use steroid injections like triamcinolone to address scalp inflammation caused by alopecia areata, or prescribe oral medications like spironolactone to help reduce hormone-related hair loss. Meanwhile, minoxidil is widely considered one of the most effective over-the-counter treatments for various types of hair loss.

“As a vasodilator, it introduces more blood flow—a.k.a. nutrients and oxygen—to the hair follicles, reviving smaller ones and rejuvenating those that may be shrinking or dormant,” explains board-certified dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman. “Minoxidil also extends the anagen phase of hair growth, which enables hair to grow longer and stronger.” For the fastest results, he recommends combining an oral medication with a topical minoxidil product.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, women who are pregnant or nursing should avoid prescription hair-loss medications and minoxidil, as research suggests they may pose risks to developing fetuses or infants. For a natural alternative, trichologist Mandy Buechner turned to pygeum bark while developing her hair growth supplement line, HerbaRoot, which launched last year.

Pygeum bark contains phytosterols, which have been shown to inhibit the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone into DHT—a hormone associated with hair thinning. “Lowering DHT levels can prevent the hair follicles from shrinking, slow shedding, and support regrowth in androgen-sensitive areas like the crown or temples,” Buechner explains.

According to Buechner, pygeum bark is most commonly found in oral supplements alongside ingredients like saw palmetto and pumpkin seed oil, which work together to create what she describes as “a synergistic DHT-blocking effect.” Some brands are now beginning to incorporate it into topical serums as well.

These Solaray supplements star pygeum and saw palmetto to help block DHT. The recommended dosage is two capsules daily—one in the morning and one at night.

If you prefer something easier to take, try mixing this pygeum extract powder into water or coffee once a day. Pair it with your favorite topical for a two-pronged approach to hair regrowth.

Pygeum is the star of Buechner’s signature supplement blend, teamed with vitamins A, C, and D3 to support scalp health and reduce shedding.

Buechner also notes that topical androgen receptor blockers, such as KX-826, show promise in addressing female pattern hair loss. These compounds may help prevent DHT from binding to hair follicles—with fewer side effects than minoxidil. KX-826 can be found in Koshine’s Anti-Hair Thinning Solution.

Though not entirely new to the world of hair growth, AnaGain—also known as pea sprout extract—has gained traction in recent years. Emerging data suggests it can stimulate dermal papilla cells, boost the expression of genes linked to hair growth, and help extend the growth cycle. Essentially, it works to improve the ratio of resting and active hair follicles to help hair look fuller.

This affordable serum combines five clinically-backed ingredients—AnaGain, Redensyl, Procapil, Capixyl, and Baicapil—to help support healthy hair growth by targeting DHT and encouraging follicle activity. Bonus: The water-based formula won't weigh hair down.

Spoiled Child’s liquid supplement promises fuller hair and less thinning in under a month. The once-a-day tablespoon formula is powered by AnaGain Nu, saw palmetto, and L-theanine to help reduce stress—a major culprit behind hair loss.

Nisim has updated its original scalp treatment gel—featuring biotin, saw palmetto, rosemary, horsetail, and chamomile—with AnaGain to further support hair growth. For optimal results, the brand recommends applying it twice daily.

Additionally, Buechner cites early research suggesting that mushroom-derived growth factors—like cordyceps and reishi—may help reduce stress-related hair loss and support healthy scalp circulation. “These are rich in polysaccharides and triterpenes that calm inflammation and improve nutrient delivery.”

This oil-free serum combines six types of mushrooms rich in ergothioneine, selenium, and polyphenols—antioxidants that may help protect the scalp from environmental stress linked to hair thinning. Ergothioneine also works to carry nutrients deeper into the skin.

These top-rated supplements combine saw palmetto with vitamins B6, B9, and D and adaptogenic mushrooms like maitake and reishi. While not direct DHT blockers, these mushrooms may help reduce inflammation, helping to create a healthier environment for hair growth.

Stem cell extracts from matsutake mushrooms work alongside rosemary, green tea, and rice protein to help rebalance the scalp microbiome and support cellular activity within hair follicles.

For early-stage thinning, both Buechner and Hartman point to Redensyl as a noteworthy treatment option. “It targets hair follicle stem cells and dermal papilla cells, which are essential for hair growth,” Hartman explains. “The ingredient is consists of a series of elements, including a flavonoid derived from plant extracts, a glucose derived from tea, glycerin, and zinc chloride that combine to boost hair follicle function and overall regrowth.”

Redensyl is the hero ingredient in this growth treatment, supported by Follicusan to help energize hair follicles, spermidine to promote healthy cell renewal, and rosemary extract to boost scalp circulation.

Research suggests that a blend of Redensyl, Capixyl, and Procapil can outperform 5 percent minoxidil when it comes to promoting hair regrowth. This multitasking serum also features AnaGain to help reactivate dormant follicles and Baicapil to support a healthy hair cycle.

Patricks' RD1 spray combines Redensyl, Capixyl, and saw palmetto to block DHT. Ginseng and caffeine work to stimulate the scalp, while vitamin B6 helps nourish.

Hartman also highlights recent research indicating that MicroRNA-205 may promote hair regeneration. “This particular type of microRNA was shown to soften hair follicles, keeping them more flexible and less prone to breakage. As we age, hair follicles naturally become stiffer and more brittle, which can lead to hair loss.”

Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Ellen Marmur notes that red and blue LED light therapy are currently being studied for their potential to reduce scalp inflammation. “These newer treatments are often used alongside traditional options like minoxidil for better results,” she tells ELLE, while adding that exosome and peptide-based serums, such as Kerafactor's Scalp Stimulating Solution, are also becoming more popular.

For a more inconspicuous option, HigherDose’s baseball cap features 120 LED bulbs and uses a clinically studied 650nm red light wavelength to help stimulate hair growth.

Not your average hair brush, this high-tech model pairs red and blue light therapy with gentle vibrations to help boost circulation and awaken dormant follicles.

While most LED hair growth devices use a single wavelength of red light, this one delivers a range of 620 to 660nm to target follicles at different depths—working to energize cells and help counteract the effects of DHT.

Marmur cautions that some traditional hair loss treatments, such as finasteride and dutasteride, have been linked to mood changes. Newer approaches like microneedling and LED therapy, she adds, may cause mild irritation or discomfort at the treatment site.

Also important to keep in mind: “It's completely normal to continue losing hair or have increased hair shedding within the first four to six weeks of using a new stimulating product,” says Buechner. “This happens because dormant hair follicles are waking up and entering the anagen, or growth, phase again. In order to grow new hair, they have to release the old.”

However, if you develop folliculitis, a rash, dandruff, itchiness, or soreness, discontinue use immediately and consult an expert for suitable alternatives. “You can return to a more intensive therapy once your scalp and nutrition are back in balance,” Buechner adds.

Those with textured hair may benefit from a nourishing oil or leave-in treatment, as this hair type is typically more prone to dryness. For fine or low-density hair, lightweight, non-comedogenic serums or foams are ideal—they won’t weigh strands down or clog pores, which can ultimately contribute to hair loss.

Most hair loss is rooted in genetics or driven by chemical processes within the body. Hair growth products aim to counteract or neutralize those processes—but as with any long-term treatment, consistency is key to seeing results. “If you stop your regimen, you can lose the progress you've made, and your body’s natural chemistry will revert,” Buechner explains. While ongoing research is exploring more permanent solutions, there’s currently no true end-all ‘cure’ for hair loss.

Dr. Corey L. Hartman is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama.

Mandy Buechner is a certified trichologist, hair loss practitioner, and creator of HerbaRoot.

Dr. Ellen Marmur is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of MMSkincare.

As a leading publisher of fashion, lifestyle, and beauty content, ELLE.com is committed to highlighting the best products in various categories by personally testing the latest and most innovative products, interviewing countless experts, and vetting customer-loved items. For this piece, beauty commerce writer Nykia Spradley consulted two dermatologists and a trichologist to learn about the best new ingredients for hair loss and which formulas to shop.