In this corner of Boyacá, the potato became an ancestral sweet: get to know it

In the mountains of Boyacá, specifically in the municipality of Mongua, a tradition that surprises both locals and visitors alike is still preserved : jute, or sweet potato. This ancestral product, inherited from indigenous communities, transforms what is normally a savory food into a delicacy with unique characteristics.
The process involves fermenting the Riche variety of potatoes underground for two to four months. The result is a soft tuber with an intense aroma and a flavor that, although unconventional, is highly appreciated by those who consume it, according to the Boyacá government website.
The technique is so unique that some locals have even passed down their knowledge through generations, keeping alive a practice that, were it not for oral tradition, would be at risk of disappearing.
This food has not only remained part of the local diet, but has also acquired a special place in Boyacá's intangible heritage.(READ: Boyacá's frozen-in-time town: life still feels like it did in 1900)
The jutes process
jute or sweet potato
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To prepare jutes, the first step is to dig a hole one meter deep in a field where fresh water runs from streams, rivers, or cisterns. Petite potatoes are placed there, covered with ferns, and left to rest for months. Over time, the potatoes begin to float and acquire a characteristic odor, at which point they are considered ready for consumption. The skin peels off easily, leaving a soft, syrupy mass, ready to be turned into a dessert.
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Jutes can be served with panela, curd, or honey, and are prepared in both sweet and savory versions. Despite their strong aroma, those who try them agree that they provide immediate energy and a unique, captivating flavor.Residents like Antonio García and Elsa María Castro, farmers from Mongua, highlighted in a government podcast that it is a nutritious food, easy to prepare, and with properties that are even used as a home remedy.
Culture, identity and legacy
jute or sweet potato
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The consumption of jutes is so deeply rooted that the inhabitants of Mongua and Aquitania are popularly known as "jute-eaters." The nickname, far from being a mockery, reflects the cultural importance of this product in the regional identity.
According to the Boyacá Governor's Office, jutes are part of a strategy to preserve the department's ancestral cuisine. The practice is registered as part of intangible heritage to prevent it from being forgotten. (READ: The Colombian city with the most beautiful sunset in all of Latin America, according to AI)
The tradition has indigenous roots. In the Chibcha language, "juti" meant rubber, and other indigenous communities preserve variations such as the jutes of Somondoco, where corn cobs are fermented underground under similar conditions.This process not only ensured food supplies in times of scarcity, but also strengthened the communities' relationship with the páramo and its natural resources.
Sweet potato is, therefore, much more than a food: it is a symbol of cultural resistance, a gift from the earth, and a demonstration of peasant creativity to transform the everyday into the extraordinary.
A rare product but with a unique historyBoyacá jute remains a staple in local cuisine, although today it's considered a rare product and difficult to access outside the region. However, its history continues to captivate those seeking unique culinary experiences.
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At a time when potatoes are the star of traditional dishes like ajiaco, cocido, and papa salada, this ancestral preparation proves that the tuber can also surprise in the sweet realm.Portafolio