Brno, a city of legends, functionalist architecture, underground treasures, and some of Europe's finest wines

One of the most visited buildings in Brno is its Old Town Hall , and not only because you can access the top of its tower and enjoy one of the best panoramic views of this Czech city. It's also because it's home to the famous Brno crocodile , the same one that locals believed was a dragon and which stars in one of the city's many legends. There are so many that they could tell you one for every corner or monument. In fact, this very building has two: the one about the dragon/crocodile on its door, and the one that explains the reason for a crooked piece in the meticulous decoration of the late Gothic portal through which you enter the building.

While some are funny and others are pure fantasy, some are still alive, such as the one that explains why the bells of the cathedral (a Baroque temple located in the highest part of the city) ring every day at 11 a.m. (and not the usual 12 p.m.). This change originated in the midst of a battle against Swedish troops, and it was so successful that they continue to ring four centuries later.

Špilberk, the castle that has seen it all

As in every fairytale and legendary city, Brno has a castle that could be the perfect setting for any story. It's called Špilberk , perched on a hill overlooking the city center, and has had as many lives as the city itself. It was a royal fortress, a prison, a barracks, and today it houses a city museum, as well as various cultural events. Its gardens and viewing platforms are some of the best places to stroll and enjoy the views of the city.

A good mix

From the viewing platforms of Špilberk Castle, you can make out the city's most notable landmarks, such as its squares and towers that stand out among the reddish rooftops. One of the most recognizable images is the tower of St. James's Church , which rises to 94 meters as the tallest in Moravia. Its Gothic silhouette stands out among the rooftops of the Old Town and provides the perfect starting point for exploring the city center.

Brno is a city of architectural contrasts. On a single street, you can go from Baroque to Functionalism in just a few steps. Two very different styles that blend seamlessly in Brno. And it was this style, so unconcerned with decoration and so focused on practicality, that was one of the most successful in the Czech city.

Villa Tugendhat , designed in the 1930s by German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, is one of the greatest exponents of European functionalism and a true revolution in its time due to its use of open space, innovative materials and its way of understanding the relationship between interior and exterior.

Underground

After exploring the city from the open air, it's time to delve deeper into its depths. It's estimated that only 20% of Brno's subsoil is known , a small amount that already hides great treasures. One of the most visited and well-known is its ossuary , the second largest in Europe after the one in Paris. Its entrance is located beneath the Church of St. James , and the remains of more than 50,000 people rest here.

It was discovered in 2001 and after years of work, cleaning, and research (anthropological analysis reveals that it houses medieval remains that suffered from plague, cholera, war victims from the Thirty Years' War and the Swedish siege—in short, a summary of its history) it is now open to the public.

And this isn't the only underground treasure. High above the city are the ancient Žlutý kopec water reservoirs , opened to the public just a few years ago. These enormous underground tanks, built between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, supplied water to the entire city and are impressive today for their monumental scale, with vaults that look like something from an industrial cathedral. In this case, the architect didn't just think about creating something functional, but also beautiful.

That contradiction so closely linked to Brno that makes this city so special . A place where important villas are unadorned, bones are made into sculptures, water tanks are monuments, and there's a legend for everything.