Wind, sea, and style on the beautiful beaches of Biarritz

When the sun dips into the Atlantic, the roar of the ocean can be heard, and it is among the white waves, rippled by the wind, that Biarritz appears from the top of the cliffs. A path lined with green tamarisks leads down to the beach, stretching as far as the eye can see from the lights of San Sebastian, in the Spanish Basque Country, to the great lighthouse that has guided navigators and dreamers since 1834, dominating the ocean from its 73-meter height. In the pearl of the Côte des Basques, the true protagonist is the lively sea, majestic with impetuous waves that lap the cliffs and caress the long sandy beaches, shaping the city's identity.

From afar Villa Belza, another magnificent Belle Époque building of the city in plain sight while some people are dedicated to surfing, of which the city is a renowned centre

A unique location, chosen for many films, but one in particular has left its mark. It was 1957, and during the filming of "The Sun Also Rises" (based on Ernest Hemingway's novel "The Sun Also Rises"), American producer Paul Velter brought a surfboard to the set, which landed in Europe. Compared to the Mediterranean Sea, the Basque waters are more unpredictable, perfect for surfers, and that board sparked great interest among residents, helping to spread a passion for the sport. Since then, Biarritz has been the European surfing capital, not only for the many competitions it hosts (from the historic Madeider Arosteguy to the Biarritz Surf Festival, scheduled for September 12-14), but also because the call of the waves is irresistible for thousands of residents and non-residents alike, and surfing embodies the city's quintessential lifestyle. Vintage boards and colorful longboards invade the streets, squares, and beaches, where a colorful human spectacle blends generations, united by a desire for freedom in testing themselves against the waves, patient in waiting for the right moment, eager to relax after the effort.

The Côte des Basques. (credit Anik Labreigne)

In search of the right wave, some head to the beaches of Anglet and others to the cliffs of Bidart (the view from Tantina beach while enjoying Basque-style cod is breathtaking). But the most famous coastal site of victories and defeats for novices and champions is the Grande Plage (Great Beach), whose fame long predates the arrival of surfing. It was here that, in honor of his beloved wife, Empress Eugénie, Napoleon III acquired nearly 50 acres of sand dunes in 1854 and built the Villa Eugénie, which, in classic Empire style, became the summer residence of the imperial court. Even today, strolling along the beach is awe-inspiring by its splendor (it has been a superbly renovated Palace of France since 2011 and a luxury Hyatt hotel since 2022). With the king and queen, illustrious figures flocked to Biarritz, and the resort's fame spread worldwide, attracting aristocracy and high society. After the Empress's death in 1881, the residence was transformed into a casino, then into the Hôtel du Palais, and after a tragic fire in 1903, it was rebuilt in the shape of an "E" in honor of the Empress. Subsequently, royal opulence gave way to glamour, with the presence of art and fashion figures such as Victor Hugo, Frank Sinatra, Gary Cooper, Ernest Hemingway, and Coco Chanel, to whom a splendid suite is now dedicated.

The sumptuous entrance of the Hotel Du Palais, a symbol of the city's history

Remnants of its glorious past include the beautiful villas facing the lighthouse and the many Art Deco buildings (from the Casino Municipal on Grande Plage to the luxurious Plaza Hotel and the Musée du Mar). There are also several small, charming hotels in the heart of the city between Rue Gambetta and Boulevard Esplanade. The delightful Hotel Eduard VII, formerly the "Villa des Rosiers," is located between Avenue Victor-Hugo and Avenue Carnot. King Edward VII of England stayed there, enjoying the invigorating sea air that soothed his cough. Each room, furnished with refined Art Deco furnishings, tells a story of the city's past. From there, a maze of streets opens up in just a few minutes, revealing artisan workshops (from Graine, a locally produced textile brand, to the scented essences of Le Corner De Sofie, to the unmistakable fabric deckchairs).

The interior of the historic Hôtel Eduard VII, formerly the "Villa des Rosiers," between Avenue Victor-Hugo and Avenue Carnot. (Credit: Mathilde Cochet)

Just a few more steps and you'll reach Rue des Halles: a must-see stop at the unmistakable covered market to enjoy gastronomic specialties, from pintxos, Basque tapas featuring fresh fish, to the famous Jambon de Bayonne, the local cured ham. Returning toward the sea, on the Cachaous Rock, stands the beautiful Villa Belza, another magnificent Belle Époque building with breathtaking sea views. From there, the scenery once again becomes spectacular, as the tamarisk trees thicken until they reach the Rocher de la Vierge (Virgin's Rock), illuminated in the middle of the ocean and reached by an iron bridge between the rocks. A wave-battered stone sentinel, erected in memory of a miracle at sea, the Virgin has watched over sailors for over a century, offering visitors a panoramic view of the bay and the Pyrenees. The most beautiful sunset view of the Rocher de la Vierge is from the rooftop of the Hotel de la Plage, which is also open to non-guests. Far from the bustle of the city, nestled like a pebble on Port-Vieux beach, it invites you to linger amidst the cosmopolitan charm of the coast. Interior designer Olivier Granet-Sottis has created a design that echoes the surrounding landscape. Mineral tones, pale woods, and raw fabrics interact with natural light, evoking the sea and the contours of the Basque country it proudly bears witness to. Each piece is custom-designed, the result of collaborations with local artisans and artists.