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Chanel and Schiaparelli: moments of grace in haute couture

Chanel and Schiaparelli: moments of grace in haute couture

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The sparse collection week nonetheless produced two exceptional shows. Chanel cultivated the simplicity of elegance; Schiaparelli brought its modern matadors into the arena.

Tuesday morning, in the gallery of the Grand Palais, decorated in the style of Coco Chanel-era couture salons, we were told that Matthieu Blazy was there. The new artistic director of the house on rue Cambon , which will unveil its first collection during the ready-to-wear Fashion Week next October, came to encourage the studio in charge (for the last time, therefore) of haute couture. But discreetly, in the second row, near a door, to arrive last and leave first... It is also said that he gave some wise advice to the teams. This is what we think we detect in the first passages of the show, more refined, more "craft" than usual.

Also read: Matthieu Blazy is appointed artistic director of Chanel: “I am delighted and honored to join this wonderful house”

This season's inspiration, somewhat unexpected, comes from a phrase by Paul Morand in L'Allure: "Coco was a shepherdess." Not that the designer once tended a flock, but the writer echoes the simplicity that Chanel brought to the world of fashion and her rural origins...

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