Roofs of the World: The highest mountain in Europe?

Whether Elbrus or Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in Europe depends on the definition of the inner-Eurasian border. This definition, however, is highly controversial, as Asia and Europe are not naturally separated by a sea, but rather merge seamlessly into one another. The artificial separation of the continents dates back to the ancient Greeks, who considered themselves more cultured than the peoples of the East and therefore wanted to distance themselves from them. This idea solidified with the victory of the Persian Wars. Thus, they drew a border from the Aegean Sea across the Bosporus and the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea, beyond which, in their view, the "barbarians" lay.

Mount Elbrus is located in southwest Russia, near the Georgian border. It is a dormant stratovolcano with two heavily glaciated peaks. The western peak is 5,642 meters high, making it the highest in Europe and the entire Caucasus (if you count it as part of Europe). There is also the eastern peak, about 40 meters lower, which has a crater approximately 250 meters in diameter. The last eruption is thought to have occurred about 2,000 years ago.

The name probably derives from the Georgian word for "conical mountain," in Georgian იალბუზი Ialbusi. It was long considered sacred and therefore forbidden to climb.

The East Summit was supposedly first climbed by Kilar Khachinov on July 22, 1829, but the success of this expedition is now in doubt. The first ascent of the West Summit was made by the Englishmen Frederick Gardiner, Florence Crauford Grove, and Horace Walker, with the Swiss expedition leader Peter Knubel, on July 26, 1874.

The first ski ascent was achieved by Carl Egger and Guido Miescher in 1914.

Most visitors climb Elbrus from the south. Many take the Elbrus cable car to about 3,800 m, where they transfer to a chairlift that takes them to an altitude of just over 4,000 m. This area also includes the Diesel Hut, a serviced hut, and the so-called "Botschki." These cylindrical accommodations, each accommodating six people, primarily serve as the starting point for summit ascents.

You stay there until you're sufficiently acclimatized and the weather permits the ascent. On the day of the ascent, you'll then have to climb about 1,600 meters to reach the west summit.

The route to the summit is technically very easy, but should not be underestimated due to the altitude and the severe weather changes, with hurricane-force storms and temperatures as low as -30 degrees Celsius. There are regular deaths due to insufficient acclimatization or underestimating the weather. A local mountain guide is therefore advisable.

The best time to climb Mount Elbrus is from May to September.