The best travel tips: Three seaside cities that offer water and cosmopolitanism

What do Rotterdam, Gdansk, and Kiel have in common? Their maritime charm, their harbor, and a healthy dose of cosmopolitanism. Three city trips right by the water.
Excitingly modern! The Netherlands' second-largest city boasts dazzling buildings, floating restaurants, and Dutch laid-back vibes.
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Rotterdam is a great place for bike enthusiasts – rental stations are spread throughout the city (approx. 15 euros per day). Prefer the bus? The "Rotterdam Welcome Card" with a public transport pass offers a 25 percent museum discount (15 euros, citycard.rotterdam.info).
Stay overnightNhow. The hotel is housed in a glass skyscraper designed by star architect Rem Koolhaas. The rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows offer stunning views of the Erasmus Bridge and Rijnhaven, the harbor basin in the heart of the city. Double room with breakfast from €120 (Wilhelminakade 137, Tel. +49 10 206 76 00, nhhotels.com).
Supernova. A small hotel in a historic brick building, cozy yet stylish. Those who treat themselves to the "Urban Oasis" suite even have a garden. Double room with breakfast from €155 ('s-Gravendijkwal 68, Tel. +49 10 307 63 96, supernovahotel.nl).
Bed, Bites & Business. This charming boutique hotel is located on the Rijnhaven, in a former warehouse from the 1930s. The furniture and lovingly curated decor in a casual industrial look are inspired by the building's history. Double rooms from €139 (Nico Koomanskade 94, Tel. +49 10 304 60 63, bed-bites-business.com).
EnjoyPutaine. This restaurant with a wooden terrace is located in the "Floating Offices," a floating office-and-more building in the Rijnhaven with a magnificent view. You can create your own menu from two dozen small dishes (€9 to €26) (Antoine Platekade 996, Tel. +49 628 51 05 45, restaurantputaine.nl).
Renilde. The Art Depot Museum's mirrored building is as spectacular as the organic restaurant on the birch-covered roof. During the day, snacks like the signature "Bitterballen" (meatballs) are served, and in the evening, a gourmet menu is offered (snacks from €8.50, 5-course menu €67; Museumpark 24, Tel. +49 10 441 94 00, restaurantrenilde.nl).
Markthal. Giant flowers, fruits, and insects: Upon entering the market hall, tilt your head back and admire the XXL artwork "Horn of Plenty" on the ceiling. Two dozen snack bars with delicacies line the floor. Right at the market hall exit, try "De Kroket Loket" for "kroketjes," Dutch crispy balls filled with beef, shrimp, or mushrooms (DS. Jan-Scharpstraat 298, markthal.nl).
ShoppingPlaisier Avant Garde. In the trendy Hoog district, it's worth stopping by the shop of interior expert Robert Plaisier: Not only will you find designer furniture and home accessories, but he's also a very personable man and a passionate storyteller who has a story to tell about every piece (Mariniersweg 84 A, plaisierinterieur.nl).
Kilo Kilo If you're looking for vintage clothes from trendy streetwear labels, you can spend hours browsing here; prices are charged by the kilo (Schouwburgplein 9, kilokilovintage.nl).
Céno Classics. This store also offers vintage fashion – but with a more upscale feel, featuring timeless designs and natural materials, all carefully curated by owner Céline. One floor below, in the same building, cool music emanates from the record store "Off-Beat Records" (Zwaanshals 283 A, cenoclassics.nl).
ExperienceDepot Boijmans van Beuningen. It's hard to stop marveling at the "silver teacup," a design by the renowned Rotterdam architectural firm MVRDV. The museum's nearly 40-meter-high glass facade reflects Rotterdam's skyline, and behind it, you can admire some 150,000 works of art spread across six floors. Tickets (€20) are available online only (boijmans.nl).
Kop van Zuid/Katendrecht. The two peninsulas surround the Rijnhaven. A beach has been created in the harbor basin, the decks are designed for lounging, and the tables on the quay walls are served by local restaurants. Great atmosphere!
Fenix. The shiny silver swirl, called "The Tornado," can be seen from afar on the roof of the museum at Rijnhaven, which only opened on May 16. The Fenix is dedicated to global migration and shows how international artists view it – with works by Shilpa Gupta, Steve McQueen, Rineke Dijkstra, and Kimsooja (fenix.nl), among others.
phoneThe area code for Holland is 00 31.
GdanskBreathe in the sea air! Poland's gem is a place steeped in history with hearty cuisine and – practically around the corner – a beach stretching for miles.
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Gdansk (Gdańsk) has a well-developed public transport network (ZTM) with trams and buses; a 24-hour ticket costs approximately €4. You can get closer to the action by bike (city bikes, for example, from Mevo, €13.50/48 hours; first download the "Mevo-rower metropolitalny" app and register).
Stay overnightHotel Gdańsk. This five-star hotel enjoys a quiet location on the Motlawa River marina. Guests can choose between rooms in the historic brick building or the modern annex. A drawbridge provides quick access to the Old Town on foot. Double room/breakfast €150 (Szafarnia 9, Tel. +41 58 300 17 14, hotelgdansk.com.pl/en/).
Q Hotel Grand Cru Gdańsk. A modern design hotel has moved into this brick warehouse, beautifully set against the rough brick walls. Although practically everything is within walking distance, it enjoys a quiet location. Double rooms with breakfast from €75 (Ul. Rycerska 11–12, Tel. +49 58 772 73 00, qhotels.pl/de/q-hotel-grand-cru-gdansk).
Pensjonat Irena. For a trip to the seaside: This family-run, beautifully old-fashioned guesthouse is located in the seaside resort of Sopot, about twelve kilometers from Gdansk, in a renovated villa dating from 1906. The train station and beach are just around the corner, and mornings begin in the breakfast room with historic stained-glass windows. Double room with breakfast from €110 (Ul. Chopina 36, Tel. +49 58/551 20 73, pensjonat-irena.com).
EnjoyKubicki. In the city's oldest restaurant, you can sit beautifully on the banks of the Motlawa River and watch the excursion boats pass by. The modern twists on classic Polish dishes are delicious, such as "Zurek," a spicy sourdough soup, for €5, and beef roulades for €8 (Ul. Wartka 5, Tel. 058/301 00 50, restauracjakubicki.pl).
Pierogarnia Stary Młyn. If you can't get enough of pierogi, this is the place for you: These filled dumplings can be enjoyed traditionally boiled, but also baked, for example, the delicious "izbowe" with lentils, cheese, and spinach; three pieces cost €8 (Świętego Ducha 64, Tel. 058/727 71 14, pierogarnie.com/en/restauracje).
Azima. Tatar refugees from Crimea have been living in Gdansk since 2014. Susanna Izzetdinova is one of them. She first cooked for the refugees, then opened this café. It bears the name of her daughter, who now runs it. Tatar delicacies include honey-sweet baklava and pilaf, a rice dish with chicken for €8 (Pańska 9/11, Tel. +49 797 96 36 81).
Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa. This drinking hall serves vodka, beer, herring bites, and pickles. It's very authentic and the perfect place to end the evening (Długi Targ 35/38, Tel. 05 30 76 69 45, pwip.com.pl/gdansk/).
ShoppingColorat. The name "Colorful" says it all for this Gdansk-based fashion label: The cool sweatshirts, dresses, and pants are printed with magical animals and symbols (Grobla I 5/7, Tel. 07 37 17 08 07, colorat.eu).
Moja Forma. Gdansk is home to many amber shops, but the gallery of jewelry artist Maria Fijałkowska is particularly special: She sells eye-catching creations that showcase the resin turned to stone in a very modern way (Mariacka Street 46, Tel. +49 609 77 08 08, mojaforma.com).
ExperienceWorld War II Museum. It's a tough subject, but anyone traveling to Poland can't help but confront the past. This architecturally well-designed and content-rich museum presents the history of the war and depicts the terror of the 20th century perpetrated by both the Germans and the Soviets (Plac Władysława Bartoszewskiego 1, Tel. +49 5 87 60 09 60, muzeum1939.pl/en).
European Solidarity Center. On the site of the former Lenin Shipyard, the history of the Solidarity trade union, which led to the end of all communist regimes in Eastern Europe, is told. Here, visitors learn what humanity is capable of, working together, peacefully, and for good (pI. Solidarności 1, 0048/58/772 41 12, ecs.gda.pl/en/permanent-exhibition/).
Turtle House. Holy Spirit Lane (Ul. św. Ducha) is located in the Old Town, and the story of the Trosiener family, who lived here at number 111, is remarkable: When smallpox broke out in 1774, father Trosiener wanted to protect his three daughters – and had them vaccinated. A completely new method! They vaccinated with live vaccines from other infected children – and it worked. One of the daughters, by the way, was named Johanna; she became a writer and was the mother of the philosopher Arthur Schopenhauer.
Pier in Sopot. It extends an impressive 511 meters into the Baltic Sea – making it the longest pier in Europe (admission: €2). Just a half-hour train ride to the seaside resort, and you'll soon find yourself with miles of sand beneath your feet. In 1823, physician Johann Georg Haffner founded the first beach resort here. Later, Sopot became a "health resort for working people," and today it is the "summer capital of Poland."
phoneThe area code for Poland is 00 48.
KielFjord feeling! Where the Baltic Sea has carved its way into the land lies Kiel – sailing fans know Schleswig-Holstein's metropolis for the "Kiel Week," which starts on June 21st; everyone else should get to know it.
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The city is best explored on foot, by bike, or by ferry. City bikes from the "Sprottenflotte" (Sprotten Fleet), for example, are available at the central bus station for €12 per day (rent via app). The ferries in Kiel are part of the public transport system (kvg-kiel.de).
Stay overnightMe and all Hotel. Electronic music plays in the lobby, which, with its urban design, feels like a cross between a co-working space and a cocktail bar. The rooms are subtly decorated with maritime details, and the location on the inner fjord is perfect: a five-minute walk to the city center! Double room with breakfast: €119 (Kaistraße 80, Tel. +49 431 363 05 10, hyatt.com/me-and-all-hotels/de).
Kieler Kaufmann. This former banker's villa overlooks the fjord. Relax in the sauna and pool at the "Sanctum" spa before enjoying excellent cuisine at the hotel's "Ahlmanns" restaurant. Retiring to your elegantly styled room afterward. Double room with breakfast from €174 (Niemannsweg 102, Tel. +49 431 881 10, kieler-kaufmann.de).
Strandhotel Seeblick. Swimming and sunbathing during the day, followed by a glass of wine on the balcony with a sea view in the evening: This is how it should be – in the Baltic Sea resort of Heikendorf and in a prime location by the beach and promenade. Double room with breakfast from €225 (Uferweg 2, Tel. +49 431 533 21 80, strandhotel-seeblick.de).
EnjoyMamajun. The ingredients are regional, the cuisine is cosmopolitan (e.g., beef kofte for €20), and the counter in front of the kitchen is open, so you can watch what's being conjured up in the kitchen (Jägersberg 6, Tel. +49 431/97 99 31 35, mamajun-restaurant.de).
John's Burgers. Owner John Rapaglia used to be a marine biologist in the US. His dream: to grill burgers in Germany – and what he now delivers from the grill to the bun is top-notch (from about €9; Gutenbergstraße 16, johnsburgers.de).
Moby. Hand-rolled fish cakes: This snack bar offers classic fish sandwiches, as well as its own creations, such as "red wine matjes" with quark cream, apple, onion, and lettuce in a multigrain roll. Thanks to the lounge chairs and beach chairs, it even has a beach club feel (Kiellinie 61a, mobykiel.de).
Seebar Düsternbrook. A place for all occasions: a swimming area, restaurant, and bar all in one, magically situated on a jetty overlooking the Baltic Sea. Delicious: the "Spicy Beef Burger" with organic meat (approx. €15). You can also get out on the water with a SUP board for €12 per hour (Kiellinie 130, Tel. +49 431 341 85 seebad-duesternbrook.com).
Acqua. Strande, on the western shore of the fjord, has everything a Baltic Sea resort needs: a marina, sand, and a promenade. The restaurant of the "Acqua Strande Yacht Hotel" serves, among other dishes, Strande flounder with fried potatoes (approx. €30) (Strandstraße 15, Tel. +49 43 49/80 80, acquastrande.de).
The Old Man. The café in the "Schifffahrtsmuseum Fischhalle" serves great snacks, such as "classic fish and chips" for about €19 (Wall 65, Tel. +49 431/90 88 42 08, deraltemann-kiel.de).
ShoppingAumann Authentics. A great selection of handmade shoes in the "Holtenauer," the shopping mile in Kiel (Holtenauer Str. 64, aumann-schuhe.de).
Bonscherhus. Marvel at how sugar is transformed into colorful candies and lollipops at this sweet factory (Citti-Park Mall, Mühlendamm 1, citti-park-kiel.de/bonscherhus).
ExperienceKunsthalle zu Kiel. Plan a few hours for this extraordinary collection, which includes works by Gerhard Richter and Joseph Beuys. Admission is 7 euros (Düsternbrooker Weg 1, kunsthalle-kiel.de).
Geomar Aquarium. The aquarium of the Helmholtz Centre for Ocean Research aims to introduce people to the animals of local waters. Free seal feedings are held daily at 10 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. in the outdoor enclosure; admission is €3 (Düsternbrooker Weg 20, aquarium-geomar.de).
Brigitte
brigitte