Oysters: A drop of ocean on your tongue

The first oyster you slurp in life remains unforgettable for most people. The taste experience is truly unique: salty, mineral, sometimes with a subtle sweetness, sometimes refreshing and clear like the sea itself – a drop of ocean on your tongue. Let's dive into the fascinating world of oysters. Between myth, the sound of the sea, and delicate flavor.

For many, oysters are the epitome of exclusivity; for others, they're simply a culinary mystery. The fact is: oysters are much more than a food. They are an experience, a promise of indulgence and refinement. But what makes this velvety-tender, slightly elastic, yet firm piece of meat, which feels like cool silk on the palate, so special?

When you open an oyster, you gaze into a small, shimmering world. The mother-of-pearl interior of the shell shimmers mysteriously, and in the past, a real pearl was even occasionally found within. Most of the oysters we enjoy today are farmed oysters – and pearls are extremely rare. But the magic remains. Even in ancient Rome and Greece, oysters were considered among the finest delicacies. In the ancient world, they were associated not only with culinary delights but also with sensual seduction. The symbol of the oyster is Aphrodite, the goddess of love, who, according to myth, was born from the foam of the sea. Oysters have always been considered aphrodisiacs – Casanova is said to have consumed a dozen of them every day.

During the Renaissance, oysters were an essential part of the opulent banquets of European royal families. At the beginning of the 19th century, thanks to advanced transportation technology, they briefly became a mass commodity: In Paris, they were sold on the streets; in England, they were part of everyday life for the working class. Only with the overfishing of natural oyster beds and rising demand did the picture change: The oyster once again became a luxury item, the epitome of fine living.

Today, oyster bars in cities like Paris, London, and New York are more popular than ever. Leading the way is the iconic Grand Central Oyster Bar. at the corner of 42nd Street and Park Avenue in Manhattan, which opened in 1913. A whopping five million oysters pass over the counter here annually. It may be cheaper and more chic elsewhere, but the Grand Central Oyster Bar in the city's largest train station is an institution – THE traditional culinary meeting place for New York's upper class, and of course, for gourmets and curious visitors from all over the world.

Tasting oysters together in fine company is a stylish ritual around the world that deserves to be celebrated. They are served on ice, accompanied by a glass of champagne or a dry white wine.

For the best taste, you should not just slurp and swallow them, but chew them well, recommends Hüseyin Tezgider , head of the fish counter at the Frankfurt Frischeparadies in Griesheim, who gives us an expert look behind the often mysterious oyster scenes.

Oysters, like wine and cheese, are a reflection of their environment in terms of flavor. Their location at sea determines their origin, and their taste is refined before harvest in special purification tanks, known as claires, where they perfect their flavor and texture. The longer they mature there, the finer and clearer their flavor becomes. The most famous oysters come from France—especially the "Fine de Claire," the "Gillardeau," and the "Belon." Sometimes they are strong and fruity, sometimes mild and nutty, sometimes salty and mineral, sometimes with a hint of cucumber or melon. Individual preferences vary.

"The taste of an oyster reflects the water quality in which it lives. The warmer the water, the more bacteria it contains, the faster the oyster grows, and the more it tastes of algae," explains Tezgider. "A Belon, for example, develops its aroma in estuaries at the transition from fresh to salt water, which can make it taste almost musty. It's not my personal favorite, but it has fans worldwide."

"You should chew an oyster with pleasure. Only then can it fully unfold its unique aroma in the mouth." – Hüseyin Tezgider, head of the fish counter at FrischeParadies

An oyster should definitely be enjoyed on its own, without the obligatory squeeze of lemon: "Then it tastes milder, slightly sweeter, and nuttier." Connoisseurs slurp it straight from the shell and then chew it with relish. Only then, fans agree, can the oyster fully unfold its unique flavor in the mouth.

Anyone who wants to enjoy oysters not only in a restaurant but also at home must follow a few basic rules. Those interested can learn these in the "Oyster Competence Course." Learn how to store them properly, how to slurp and chew – and, of course, how to open them. This is an art in itself, which Tezgider passionately celebrates step by step before the participants' eyes. The larger and older the oyster, the more practice and strength you need when using the oyster knife. When it finally pops open, you separate it from the muscle and shell and pour off the salty seawater it contains: "The oyster produces a second water that tastes spicier, clearer, and cleaner," says the expert, "and that's the only thing you want in your mouth."

Oysters live on rocky coasts around the globe. The famous iodine-rich "Galway Oyster" is farmed in Ireland, the "Blue Points" in Long Island Sound in the US state of Connecticut, and the "Kumamoto" in Japan. "We're currently receiving a lot of requests for the Sylter Royal, a Normandy oyster that's only farmed in Sylt and is currently very fashionable," reveals Tezgider. "But when we finally have them in our range, most customers are disappointed: they're really very small." France is considered a mecca for oyster lovers. Three times a week, refrigerated trucks full of shellfish travel from the South of France to this fresh paradise. They are transported in sealed wooden crates.

The Pacific oyster, a Japanese variety that has become established in Europe, is particularly popular. The famous "huîtres" from the Bay of Arcachon, Brittany, or Marennes-Oléron are world-renowned. The delicate Bélon, the crisp Tsarskaya, and the creamy Gillardeau develop their unique flavor here. Oyster farmers, called ostréiculteurs, control the water, currents, temperature, and nutrients. It often takes several years for an oyster to reach the perfect size and ideal flavor.

"For me, the Gillardeau is the best – plenty of meat and intense flavor," enthuses Hüseyin Tezgider. The Gillardeau is considered the world's highest-quality oyster and is known as the Spécial de Claires (Spiritual of the Sea), cultivated and refined on oyster beds in the Bay of Marennes-Oléron. To prevent counterfeiting, every single oyster from the renowned Gillardeau family in Bource-francs-le-Chapus is engraved with a "G."

After months on the oyster beds, they spend three years in nutrient-rich water, where they are regularly cleaned and packaged on the boat after harvesting. "Each crate also contains a note with the name of the employee who packed the oysters—in this case, it was Isabelle," says Tezgider, beaming after opening the wooden crate containing 12 oysters.

A Gillardeau costs five euros at Frischeparadies. "We recently started offering our customers a cheaper alternative. The Krystale from Normandy tastes similar to a Gillardeau, but is available for just 3.50 euros," explains the trained fishmonger. Depending on their weight, oysters are classified into sizes from 0 to 5 – the smaller the number, the older and larger the oyster, and the more expensive it is to enjoy. Size 3 is standard in restaurants. When a Gillardeau is harvested after five years, it has usually reached a respectable 2.

Oyster farmer Florent Tarbouriech has truly perfected the art of oyster farming in a lagoon on the shores of the Étang de Thau in Marseillan, south of Montpellier. His patented "La Marée Solaire" farming method simulates natural tides and is "as simple as it is ingenious," as the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung (FAZ) put it: The oysters are suspended from ropes, regularly pulled from the water, and exposed to the sun and air in precise doses, which makes them fleshier and larger, making them objects of desire for top restaurants around the world. This environmentally friendly process mimics the natural ebb and flow of the tide, is powered by solar and wind energy, and is controlled via smartphone.

The invention, which he patented in 2006, transformed the small family business Tarbouriech into the largest oyster farm in southern France, with 150 employees and an annual turnover of €20 million. A seafood restaurant, a luxury hotel with oyster treatments in the spa, and a delicatessen complement the on-site oyster empire.

“The flesh of our Spéciale Tarbouriech is dense and crisp, while aromas of hazelnut and porcini mushroom unfold.” – Florent Tarbouriech, oyster farmer

Oysters contain hardly any fat, but are a true protein bomb, rich in minerals, and low in calories. They represent healthy, sustainable, and low-calorie enjoyment without guilt. Just one oyster can cover your daily zinc requirement—a real boost for the immune system. Oysters feed on plankton and filter between 150 and 240 liters of water per day, depending on their size, removing pollutants and thus improving the water quality in their habitat.

An oyster arrives alive on your plate; it only dies when opened. "In the past, people would test whether the oyster was alive with a squeeze of lemon, because then it would twitch. Today we know: If an oyster smells good, it's fine," explains Tezgider. One of the biggest misconceptions, according to the expert, is that an oyster is inedible if its shell isn't tightly closed. "It often closes again if you tap it briefly. An oyster is an animal and sometimes needs to gasp for air."

Oysters are traditionally served on crushed ice, with lemon, Tabasco, mignonette sauce, or a hint of freshly ground pepper. Those who like can try creative variations with cucumber granita, apple chutney, or even a hint of wasabi. As for wine, a dry, mineral white wine or champagne is the perfect accompaniment. The lively acidity and fine bubbles of champagne ideally complement the salty freshness and velvety texture of the oysters. For those who prefer something extravagant, enjoy oysters with a sip of vodka – true to Russian style. After all, the oyster is much more than a delicacy. It is an invitation to experience life with all of your senses. to enjoy.

Oyster preferences around the world

Sometimes you need more than just a squeeze of lemon: Back in 1889, chef Jules Aciatore created the now world-famous Oysters Rockefeller at Antoine's Restaurant in New Orleans. Named after John D. Rockefeller , the richest American of his time, because the gratinated dish with spinach, Parmesan cheese, and breadcrumbs was considered particularly rich. The Grand Central Oyster Bar in New York has been serving a creamy oyster dish on a piece of toast since 1913: the famous Oyster Pan Roast. In France, gourmets love warm oysters (Huitres Chaudes) with leek fondue, while in Japan, kaki fry, crispy fried oysters, are a classic.

Two-star Sylt chef Johannes King swears by raw marinated Sylt oysters, with dishes such as elderflower granita, pea vinaigrette, or blackcurrant seed oil. The oyster omelet is extremely popular in Thailand, and the small street food stall Nai Mong Hoi Thad in Bangkok's Chinatown has been on Michelin's Bib Gourmand list for years with its irresistible oyster omelet.

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