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There were eyes in the water then the captain shouted 'keep your hands in the boat'

There were eyes in the water then the captain shouted 'keep your hands in the boat'

Vita Molyneux in the bayou

I had no idea what was in store for me (Image: Vita Molyneux)

The heat was oppressive, hot and moist, like breathing in water. Silverish grey moss hung from the cypress trees, draped like silk over the arms of the branches.

Around me, five alligators cruised through the brackish swamp water, thrashing their tails with their reptilian eyes locked on to mine as they drew closer. They were almost upon me when the cry rang out across the bayou - “keep your hands in the boat! We had a guy get bitten on the last ride”.

I was on the Pearl River in Louisiana on the outskirts of New Orleans, aboard a flat bottomed boat captained by the charming Randy - or Captain Blueberry as he requested we call him in his southern drawl.

Captain Blueberry at the helm of the boat

Captain Blueberry at the helm of the boat (Image: Vita Molyneux)

The trip down the river and to Honey Island swamp had just begun, but already I felt as though I had been on a journey.

Cajun Encounters, which runs the trips, offers the option of picking you up from hotels in the city. An air-conditioned bus will then take you out to the bayou and drop you back. Our guide on this trip was Derek.

An unassuming name for one of the most enthusiastic and informative guides I have ever had, Derek promised us that the 40 minute trip from the city to the swamp wouldn’t feel like it - and it didn’t.

As soon as everyone was on board the bus, Derek embarked on a feat of public speaking the likes of which I have never seen and would not be unwelcome in the Capitol building as a filibuster.

Scarcely stopping for breath, Derek told us everything he knew about his home city of New Orleans - where to eat and what to avoid, all the best local spots and history.

As we drove through the city, he pointed out interesting architecture and nature, and as we reached the outskirts, he spoke about the impact Hurricane Katrina had on him personally, and the city he loves. His speech was engaging, informative, hilarious at points and somber in others.

By the time we pulled up to the swamp I expected to find Derek panting for breath at the wheel - instead he bade us goodbye, told us what time he would pick us up and smiled for a picture.

Derek the driver

Derek the driver was incredible (Image: Vita Molyneux)

If that was the bus ride, my mind boggled at what the actual two-hour boat trip would look like.

The answer was, the experience of a lifetime.

With 20 people aboard the flat-bottomed boat captained by Blueberry, I didn’t expect much personality, but I was wrong.

Captain Blueberry immediately treated every one of us like an old friend and as we set out, he ensured we all knew the rules. Hands inside the boat at all times, don’t stand up, and respect the nature we were about to see up close.

We had scarcely left the jetty when we were surrounded by alligators. Curiously they swam right up to the boat to receive dried fish treats, as Blueberry told us all about their lives and habits in the bayou.

Alligators in the river

Alligators were a constant companion (Image: Vita Molyneux)

As the boat drifted down the river, we had an up close view of all the wildlife that calls it home, Herons picked at the water, turtles basked on logs and of course, alligators were a constant companion.

As we entered the narrow offshoots of the water, the landscape was unlike anything I had ever seen.

The beautiful lush green of the trees and plants stood verdant against the murky brown of the sediment layered water, and everywhere bird song rang out across the trees.

Captain Blueberry knew every plant we passed and every bird we heard and drove the boat with incredible skill through the winding river passageways.

The lush landscape of the swamp

The lush landscape of the swamp (Image: Vita Molyneux)

A real highlight for me was when the boat stopped alongside one of these narrow islands that lie alongside the wide river, and a family of raccoons climbed down from the trees to say hello.

I even got the opportunity to feed one of these gorgeous creatures, for which I have held a great deal of love for over many years.

With a treat on a long bamboo stick to avoid hassling them, I extended a fish treat right into the paws of a raccoon who grabbed it and scurried back into the treeline.

A raccoon perched in a tree

Up close and personal with the wildlife (Image: Vita Molyneux)

The tour was two hours long but honestly felt like minutes. I could have spent a lifetime out there, drifting slowly down the river under the boat's canopy, studying the scenery and the animals.

I can see why both Blueberry and Derek had so much love for their city and its countryside. It is absolutely otherworldly, and I felt so privileged they had shared it with me.

By the time we got back to the city, we were exhausted from the excitement and more than ready to try one of the dozens of restaurants Derek had recommended us.

If you want to experience the swamp for yourself, you can book your tours here

Daily Express

Daily Express

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