WELL WEEKEND: I drove a new Toyota SUV to Masuria and experienced true Nomad Dining
Even though this trip isn't spontaneous, having been planned weeks in advance, I can't wait. Nor is it a personal journey—it has a specific professional purpose. However, it promises to be a leisurely and thoughtful one, and the destination is picturesque, delicious, and... original (and perversely so).I'm going to Masuria to experience culinary nirvana amidst the glow of flames and the aroma of smoke.
Straight from the Fire , the project in question, is the first dinner of its kind in Poland, a Nomad Dining experience. The idea came from the West and combines a specific yet temporary venue with local culinary products and a distinguished chef's signature menu. I'll be taking Marcin Budynek, who runs the Fisza Concept Tavern in Augustów, on a sensory journey. This time, he won't host me within four walls, behind white tablecloths, but under the open Masurian sky at a table made of unfinished wood. He won't use sous vide or technologically advanced ovens to prepare the dishes, but rather a grill and fire, transforming local produce into fine dining dishes.
Toyota Land Cruiser / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
Toyota Land Cruiser - the perfect companion for trips out of town
All of this in just over a day and several hundred kilometers. For now, I need to pack the car. It's hard to imagine a better companion for such a journey than a new Toyota Land Cruiser. This Japanese off-road titan is (almost) the perfect tool for expeditions both near and far, on and off-road. The plan for the first night was simple: I'd spend the night wherever I was staying, with no specific destination in mind. I was hoping for an evening by the fire and a starry sky. Unfortunately, that plan didn't work out – it's been raining since early morning, and common sense prevails – I'll spend the night in a comfortable hotel bed.
Toyota Land Cruiser / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
In the morning, I set off for my destination – Siedlisko Morena in Stare Juchy. I have plenty of time, so I'm in no hurry. I also don't have to concentrate on keeping an eye on the road, as I'm traveling in tandem with the crew of another Toyota, which uses a navigation system that selects all roads, except the main ones. It's a perfect test of the car's capabilities and usability.
Toyota Land Cruiser / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
There's something soothing about taking your time traveling through the wilderness. My thoughts return to my favorite book:
- It is very possible that a person feels his existence only when he feels on his skin the touch of a nameless space that connects us with the most ancient times, with all the dead, with prehistory, when the mind was just separating from the world and was not yet aware of its orphanhood - writes Andrzej Stasiuk in "Jadac do Babadag".
Time passes slowly as we roll in tandem through the northeastern part of Mazovia. The paths lead along dirt roads to Kurpie Zielone. We rarely use the asphalt, for example, to see the unicorn statue in the village of Jednorożec. Further towards Mazury, we pass through Kadzidło, the regional capital, and Łyse, famous for its gigantic Easter palms.
We slowly approach our destination. The landscape begins to undulate, and water becomes increasingly visible in the basins. The term "Land of a Thousand Lakes" is a significant understatement, as it is estimated that there are approximately 3,500 lakes (over 1 hectare in size) in the entire Masurian Lake District .
Toyota Land Cruiser / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
The slowly shifting horizon, the leisurely drive, and the sun shimmering with a thousand sparks reflected in the ponds lull me into a meditative state. I think of what Henri Cartier-Bresson once said when asked after a visit to Moscow in 1954 why he traveled there by train:
Neither my wife nor I enjoy flying. It's too fast, and you don't see the gradual changes that occur when you go from one country to another.
My radius is less international, more inter-county , but my imagination scales the experience as if I were traversing at least half of Asia. The Toyota, in which I could travel the entire world, rocks patiently, traversing paths obliterated by recent downpours. Neither mud nor loose sand impresses it. Off-road driving programs allow you to choose between several unstable terrain types, and if the approach or departure angle is particularly steep, I can engage Crawl Control (off-road cruise control) or Downhill Assist Control (DAC), which maintains a safe speed on very steep descents without locking the wheels and maintaining full steering control. Under the hood is a 2.8-liter turbo-diesel engine renowned for its reliability , producing 204 hp and 500 Nm of torque. Drive is sent to all four wheels via an 8-speed automatic transmission. The 20-inch rims are shod with Dunlop Grandtrek 265/60R20 tires. This is a road tire designed for large SUVs and won't handle off-road like an A/T, let alone M/T, tire. However, it performs well on asphalt, where Land Cruisers spend most of their time anyway, but also on weekend trips out of town that include dirt roads.
Toyota Land Cruiser / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
Straight from the Fire - Nomad Dining feast on the lake shore
A bit unexpectedly, a sign reading "Stare Juchy" appears in front of my hood, and a little further on, a sign for Siedlisko Morena. It's here, on Lake Ułówki, that the Straight from the Fire dinner will take place. I arrive a few hours before the event and survey the area. The lake covers 261 hectares and is surrounded by moraine hills with a cliff-edge shoreline in places. I admire the view from one of the elevated positions. Halfway between me and the small guest beach stands a gigantic wooden table, next to which the chef and his assistants are busy in a makeshift kitchen with a fireplace. The wind shifts, and the air smells of smoke, mixed with the aromas of herbs and grilled meat. It looks promising.
Dinner Straight from the Fire at Siedlisko Morena / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
In his welcome speech , the culinary maestro and guide to local flavors outlines the idea behind the entire event: it is to be a return to the roots, to natural cuisine, prepared in the most original way possible – over fire.
Before arriving, I read an interview with Marcin in which he emphasized:
- I still deal with fine dining, but fire is something we don't do widely yet, I see it as the future of gastronomy.
Dinner Straight from the Fire at Siedlisko Morena / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
These words struck me because how could something as primal as fire be the future of gastronomy in an age of fine dining, let alone molecular cuisine? Have we, as a civilization, reached a dead end? Has the primal need to experience the elements, space, and silence become a modern luxury?
I listen and watch as the discreetly moving staff places the first plate of the evening before the guests. On it are confit tomatoes roasted in the flame, burrata made next door in Stare Juchy, and wild garlic pesto.The sweet and sour fruit, roasted over a live flame, acquires a deep umami flavor.The spiciness of the garlic and pepperoni is balanced by a delicate, velvety cheese. A good start to a nine-course* feast.*That remains to be seen.
Dinner Straight from the Fire at Siedlisko Morena / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
On the next platter, I find... a sandwich! The base is sweet challah, on which rests eel baked in oak oil, seasoned with roasted celery and horseradish. Besides its incredible flavor, it's also a play on textures – the porous bread contrasts with the meaty fish and celery cream. Complementary contrasts and harmony on the palate. A moment later, a campfire classic appears: a baked potato and grilled sausage! They're complemented by truffle cheese from the same nearby factory as the burrata, and brown butter. Tradition has been served.
Dinner Straight from the Fire at Siedlisko Morena / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
Smoked sea trout in hay is one of the brightest stars of a Masurian evening. The smoky depth of the fish and cream (also smoked) contrasts remarkably well with the fire-roasted vegetables seasoned with honey and herbs. The experience is intense and leaves a long, savory finish. The flatbread, baked simultaneously and served shortly after, is a pleasant break from this wave of intense sensations that has been ongoing for several courses. The light dough, shaped like a slice of pizza alla pala, with asparagus and leek, is casual and perfectly announces the second part of the evening.
Dinner Straight from the Fire at Siedlisko Morena / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
The pendulum swings back to the meaty side:confit lamb with fire-roasted potatoes and roasted Pedron peppers offers a rich palette on the palate. Spicy sensations intensify – shrimp with paprika-flavored chorizo sausage and black garlic warm the esophagus and stomach. Interestingly, nothing on this plate resembles local specialties, but Marcin reassures us – the shrimp come from the first Polish farm in the Lubusz Voivodeship (they are the most exotic ingredient of the entire tasting dinner), and the sausage comes from a butcher in Suwałki.
Dinner Straight from the Fire at Siedlisko Morena / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
Sweet flavors from the campfire
After the savory, it's time for sweets – baked pineapple with strawberry tartare. I devour it in one go, craving a summer refreshment before the final item on the menu – chocolate cheesecake. But before I have a chance to focus on my favorite dessert, Marcin announces a surprise – an additional item on the program – a sweet and savory dessert consisting of buttered challah, chocolate chips, and anchovies. What a combination!
Dinner Straight from the Fire at Siedlisko Morena / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
The grand finale – a Basque-style chocolate cheesecake baked over an open fire. So delicious that if I found a makutra with leftover dough, I would indulge in my favorite childhood pastime – eating the leftovers.
Dinner Straight from the Fire at Siedlisko Morena / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
I sit in my chair, feeling my head spin from all this. I recall Marcin's words about his inspirations drawn from old culinary books, reading which is like being transported back in time.
"The kitchen back then was also based on fire. Of course, there were stoves, cauldrons, etc., but the fire was the center," he says in an interview.
A fire, a bonfire, a fireplace – it's light, the smell of burning wood, the sound of sparks, a unique atmosphere that hangs in the air, and above all, a symbol of community – cooking together, sharing a meal. It's difficult to create such an atmosphere in a restaurant.
Dinner Straight from the Fire at Siedlisko Morena / Well.pl, photo by Michał Leja
Dinner Straight from the Fire is a culinary journey worthy of a book. Starring ten diverse characters , each hailing from a different part of the Masurian region, and sometimes even from a more distant, "foreign" land. Each has their own strengths, their own stories, and their own unique personalities. Each has traveled the slow-food path through Polish forests, meadows, and pastures, to perform primal rituals in the heart of Masuria and dance around the fire with the others.
MORE PHOTOS FROM THE TOYOTA LAND CRUSER TRIP AND THE DINNER STRAIGHT FROM THE FIRE CAN BE FOUND IN THE GALLERY.