ELLE Escapes: Canouan

As my 40th birthday approached, a number of people asked me how I would mark the occasion. Throwing a party felt too anxiety-inducing, but I was eager to come up with a celebration worthy of the milestone. One night over a dinner, a friend told me to close my eyes and think about where I wanted to wake up on the big day. When I did that, my heart screamed “VILLA!” I envisioned a luxury property, set on an island with pristine white sand and crystal-clear turquoise water. It was a high bar, but Canouan (pronounced can-o-won) still managed to exceed my wildest dreams.

What’s that? You’ve never heard of Canouan? I hadn’t either, but that’s about to change as the Caribbean locale in Saint Vincent and the Grenadines is becoming increasingly popular among travelers seeking unspoiled, off-the-beaten-path spots. It has all of the beauty of St. Barts or Anguilla, with a fraction of the crowds (just over 4,000 people visited in 2023).

The first thing I learned about Canouan is that it has been touted as the place “where billionaires go to escape the millionaires.” I fall in neither tax bracket, but I was sold nevertheless. If the island could serve as a vacation destination for Leonardo DiCaprio, George Clooney, and Prince Harry and Meghan Markle, all of whom have visited, surely it would wow me, too.

After a 40-minute flight from Barbados on a four-seater plane, I arrived in Canouan to begin my week in paradise. Read on for more about what to see, eat, and drink while you’re on the island.

Canouan is home to one of the Caribbean’s largest living coral reefs. Hop on board a catamaran for a short, stunning ride to Tobago Cays, an archipelago of five small uninhabited islands sheltered by a horseshoe-shaped coral reef that was featured in The Pirates of the Caribbean. The best part is, you are almost guaranteed to see huge green sea turtles swimming around.

The best view of Canouan is at the top of Mount Royal, the largest peak on the island, which stands at 877 feet. Book a private guide to lead you on the 80-minute journey. Parts of the hike are steep, but the panoramic views from the summit of neighboring islands—Mustique, Union, and Petit Saint Vincent—are well worth it. You can even arrange to have a breakfast or a sunset picnic at the top.

It’s been said that Canouan is home to more turtles than humans, which is fitting considering the island’s name is derived from the Arawaken word for turtle. Its resident red-footed tortoises roam freely around both properties—some even made themselves at home on the balcony of our villa. The Mandarin Oriental even has a turtle sanctuary where you can see baby turtles growing strong ahead of their release into the sea.

Enjoy dinner under the night sky at the tip of Soho Beach House Canouan’s jetty, where you can feast on an enormous grilled spiny lobster, plantain fritters, and tuna and watermelon crudo as the sun sets and the stars begin to shine. The peaceful, private experience feels unique and special, and the menu, which includes Caribbean specialties cooked on a wood-fire grill as well as favorites from House menus worldwide, is sure to satisfy. Also don’t miss the omakase experience that’s offered on dry land; the conch tacos were especially delicious.

Tides Bar + Grill “celebrates the best of land and sea” with a locally sourced menu that includes crab cakes, beef tartare, pan seared scallops, a rack of lamb, and jumbo shrimp with smoked trout caviar. Other dining experiences not to be missed at the Mandarin Oriental include in-suite dining (why leave your villa when they will bring the food to you!) and the weekly beachfront barbecue. You can even arrange for the hotel to drop you off for a dinner on a remote island if you’re seeking an even more intimate experience.

Sip on a cocktail with your toes in the sand at this secluded beach bar. Open for lunch only, the restaurant features a delicious catch of the day and jerk chicken as well as a variety of burgers, salads, and wraps.

Even those who have never picked up a golf club in their life can take in the views of the neighboring islands from the 13th hole on a Jim Fazio-designed course. I loved the cutesy picnic setup, complete with a classic red-and-white checkered blanket, and enjoyed sipping champagne and eating charcuterie as the sun sank beyond the horizon.

One of the best parts of staying at the Mandarin Oriental is exploring the sprawling property by golf cart. Hop in and cruise over to L’Anse Guyac, a beachfront bar and restaurant set on a secluded, calm cove that is managed by Canouan Estates, but open to all hotel guests. The day I visited, I was the only person there and it was nice having the whole place to myself.

When in the Caribbean…I learned how to husk my own coconut on the beach at Soho Beach House Canouan, one of its many social activity offerings. First you remove the hairy outer layer, and then you chop the top off with a machete, creating a hole you can drink from. The property has cold, prepped coconuts waiting for you any time of day, but the DIY experience was admittedly very fun.

The Mandarin Oriental offers a range of options for guests, from 26 ocean view and beachfront suites to chic two-to-four bedroom villas with private pools and hot tubs. The villas are located in the hills above the main hotel, overlooking a lush landscape and the turquoise sea. Upon arrival at my room, the entryway was so expansive, I momentarily confused it for the main hotel lobby. The over 3,600-square-foot home included two bedroom suites, and speaking from personal experience, it was large enough to get lost in. The living room featured high wooden ceilings, the stunning marble bathroom had the most amazing tub I’ve ever seen, and the infinity pool and hot tub boasted views that were to die for. I woke with the sunrise every day just so I wouldn’t miss a single moment of my stay.

Located on perhaps the island’s most tranquil beach, Grand Bay, Soho Beach House Canouan is Soho House’s first Caribbean’s outpost. It has 40 chalet-style rooms with blue-tinned roofs, many with direct beach access, a delicious restaurant, bars, a gym with pilates and yoga classes, and a spa. I stayed in a “medium plus” suite—the same room occupied by Prince Harry and Meghan Markle when they visited. I loved the homey, everyone-knows-your-name vibes and the many social activities (one woman told me she had met friends for life there).

For when you’re really feeling the YOLO spirit, consider Canouan Estates, a collection of luxury standalone villas spread across a 1,200-acre property. Each large home has its own unique design, but they all feature incredible lagoon views and can accommodate up to 12 people. Residents have access to nine restaurants and bars nearby, including those at the Mandarin Oriental and Soho House properties.

When you want a multitasking formula that provides subtle coverage, excellent protection, and a hint of “glow,” reach for this mineral sunscreen.

This skin care-packed bronzer kisses the cheeks like the sun would—all warmth, no glittery finish.

It resembles lipstick but functions like your favorite balm, just with a bit more tint than usual. This French beauty staple gives the lips a just-bitten finish while moisturizing with vitamin E.