The discreet hospitality of Odera amidst the scents of wild thyme and the creative cuisine of Tinos

Tinos is the spiritual version of Mykonos. If the latter is the joy of the flesh, between sea and party, the former is the most important pilgrimage destination in all of Greece. So close (just a 25-minute ferry ride), yet so far. And fortunately, because while there are now a thousand destinations for those who love unlimited fun, there are fewer and fewer places to find silence, fewer crowds, and authenticity. Tinos satisfies these needs. This tiny Cycladic island is 90% terraced, carved from rugged, rocky terrain, divided by endless dry-stone walls, dotted with windmills, Venetian Gothic dovecotes, and approximately 1,500 small private chapels, which the owners leave open to passersby, who, in addition to an altar for prayer, find water, Coca-Cola, and raki for refreshment. Mysticism and practicality have always been its hallmark.

Until a couple of years ago, Tinos was best known for the church of Panagia Evangelistria, dedicated to the island's patron saint and protector of Greece, which the boldest women would approach on their knees from the port, regardless of the weather or age. It has always been a destination for quiet domestic tourism, apart from a few curious outsiders. And like Mykonos, the Meltemi wind blows here too, which the locals benevolently consider their natural air conditioning. But Tinos has a completely different atmosphere than its glamorous neighbor. Here, there are no noisy beach clubs, no catwalk restaurants, no increasingly ambitious hotels. The villages still exude the atmosphere of old Greece, made of simple things. And the cuisine is not the usual Greek island fare. In the tavernas, they prepare goat with lemon sauce, artichokes, and vegetables that grow more vibrant here thanks to the combination of sun, salt, and wind. Wild thyme is harvested to flavor dishes, and in the countryside, a delicious blue cheese, Kariki, is produced, aged in dried pumpkin shells. In the squares, every occasion is a good one for partying and dancing the sirtaki. For starred chefs and Greek gastronomes, there is no doubt: Tinos is the gourmet island, for its recipes and ingredients.

In this bucolic setting, Odera, the island's first five-star hotel, opened in 2024, promising to elevate it to the top of the tourism scene while maintaining its character. Starting with the architecture, ultra-modern and blending into the amphitheater of a quiet, secluded bay. The suites are spacious, decorated with Pyrgos marble. They have a beautiful veranda, and many even have a pool facing the sea, where it almost feels like being alone. Resort life unfolds in the piazza, with a two-trunked olive tree in the center and a unique infinity pool that resembles a fragment of the sea (there's always a photo opportunity here). Next door is the outdoor bar, and on the other side, a whitewashed Greek chapel. In the kitchen, chef Stamatis Marmarinos prepares traditional dishes like Aegean lamb, but for a salad and a kebab, there's the bistro on the private beach. The spa takes a holistic approach: treatments inspired by lunar cycles are offered, and dry floating is a great way to relieve weight and distractions, allowing for deep self-discovery—a vacation within a vacation. And in the evening, gaze at the sky, bursting with stars. The Tinos by Starlight retreat, led by Valerie Stimac, a leading figure in astrotourism, is dedicated to them. From September 18th to 21st, a program combining science and relaxation is planned, with workshops, dinners under the stars, and walks to learn how to observe the sky, its ancestral phases and movements that have guided people and inspired interpretations of the universe for millennia. In short, to go against the grain, to be a pioneer of a place before everyone else notices, Tinos is ready to welcome guests with its mysticism and authenticity. A journey into the past, before the future catapults this paradise into the clichés of exclusive vacations, stealing the soul of the most beautiful places in the world.