Oléron Island: what to do, what to see, where to eat, where to sleep during your summer vacation
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We walk it from north to south to take in all its landscapes: beaches, cliffs, dunes, forests, channels, marshes, vineyards... We leave the main road to lose ourselves in villages, each more authentic than the last, where the houses are not uniform.
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Our island getaway takes us on a journey of discovery through ancestral trades: fishing, oyster farming, salt making... We let ourselves be guided by the waves as we try new activities. The island is full of surf spots. A detour to see the Chassiron lighthouse and Fort Boyard is a must.
During our getaway, we feast on the fish at the port of La Cotinière and the island's restaurants. We spend the night in a hotel in the dunes, a campsite at the end of the island, or a charming farm.
Emma Gouaille
Built before the Baleines lighthouse, it was originally white. For a century, its three black stripes have distinguished it from its gray neighbor on the Ile de Ré and made it more visible in bad weather. Unlike Cordouan, Chassiron no longer has a lighthouse keeper. The lighthouse is remotely controlled and monitored from La Rochelle. We begin the climb of the 224 steps.
The panorama is majestic: we observe the northern half of Oléron, the ocean, the Pertuis d'Antioche, the La Rochelle coast. We also see the islands of Aix and Ré and even Fort Boyard. We then go to discover the museum and its exhibition "The people of the coast between land and sea". The walk in the garden is punctuated by information panels on the history of the lighthouse, the tides, the winds...
In July and August: open every day from 9:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Tel. 05 46 75 18 62. Lighthouse and museum tours: €4, €60; from 6 to 12 years old €3; free for children under 6. Tourist office: 05 46 85 65 23
Emma Gouaille
The island's historic capital is well worth a stroll. Visit its imposing citadel, built on the remains of the old medieval castle. From the ramparts, you'll have a panoramic view of the Pertuis d'Antioche and a first glimpse of the multicolored oyster port. Then, stroll past the cabins and the artists who have occupied them. Painting, sculpture, ceramics, cutlery, violin making, woodturning... the skills are varied.
Around thirty designers are waiting to be discovered along the canals. On the Bridge of Dreams, the oyster shells hanging on the bridge are like wishes to be granted. In short, a place full of poetry where you feel like you're somewhere else.
Avenue du Port and Route d'Ors, Château d'Oléron
Emma Gouaille
The first artisanal fishing port in Charente-Maritime (seventh largest in France) is located on the island of Oléron! The Cotinière fish market sells over 5,000 tonnes of fish annually. The species of fish and shellfish caught are diverse: line-caught sea bass, sole, langoustines, clams, etc.
The fleet comprises approximately 100 vessels and 300 fishermen. To understand how a fish market works and the different fishing techniques, book a guided tour that introduces you to the new version of the port, which will open in 2022. To buy fresh fish, unloaded directly from the boats, head to the Victorine market.
Tours on Thursdays from 2:30 p.m., between €2.50 and €5. Tourist office: tel. 05 46 85 65 23
Photo Xavier Léoty
It's not open to visitors. You can only see the interior on television in the famous show bearing its name. To get closer and appreciate its location, you can take a boat. Departures are available from Boyardville and Saint-Denis-d'Oléron.
Fort Boyard, which once served as a penal colony, is located halfway between the islands of Aix and Oléron. You can take advantage of this to make a stopover for the day on this smaller, car-free island.
La Barge pier, next to the harbor master's office, Boyardville or St Denis pier. 1-1.5 hour crossing. Tel. 05 46 50 55 54.
Jean-Jacques Saubi
Salt production was once very important on the island. The Salines port, a former abandoned marsh, was restored to reinstate this traditional activity. Since 1994, visitors have been able to discover the ecomuseum, the salt granary, and the salt worker in action.
Stroll along the interpretive trail to learn all about white gold. In summer, there are many activities: boat trips on the marsh, salt harvesting, tasting tours, boat aperitifs, and treasure hunts.
Port des Salines, Le Grand-village-plage. Open Monday to Saturday, in July/August from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Sunday from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. Guided tours of the ecomuseum start at €4.50.
Photo Philippe Couillaud
We continue our exploration of traditional island crafts by heading to Fort Royer. This century-old village houses wooden oyster huts along the channels. There are eight family-run, artisanal businesses on the site that produce oysters with the "Marennes-Oléron" label.
Follow the guide as we discover the natural oyster and its history. This tour puts you in the shoes of an oyster farmer, from traditions to today's profession; the birth of the oysters, breeding in the parks, and then refining in the claires. The site is protected; it is part of the Moëze-Oléron nature reserve.
Fort-Royer oyster and natural site, in Saint-Pierre-d'Oléron. Tel. 05 46 47 06 48; Visits by reservation from Monday to Friday at 10 a.m., 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. Saturday at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. Information and reservations at 05 46 47 06 48. Prices: adult €6, concessions €5, under 6 free
Emma Gouaille
It's all down-to-earth fun here! At Médéric's, known as Medo, the atmosphere is family-friendly (Sarah, his partner, and Nina, his sister, manage the dining room) and the dishes are generous. You have to stop in this small commercial area to discover gourmet cuisine and a lovely terrace at the back of the dining room.
At lunchtime, the value for money is unbeatable, and the locals come in droves. For €16.90, we eat a watercress velouté topped with trout roe, tangy chicken with mango, and a deconstructed strawberry tart. In the evening, we enjoy a variety of appetizer platters, burgers, and the famous homemade cordon bleu. Médo also has a wine cellar.
Medo, 69 avenue de Bel-Air, in Saint-Pierre-d'Oléron. Tel. 06 24 77 25 21. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 1:45 p.m. and from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Sunday from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.
Emma Gouaille
We want fresh, local, good, and above all, to be surprised. At the end of the island, in Saint-Denis, Le Jour du Poisson has it all. At just 30 years old, Cécile Chapet and Théo François offer particularly accomplished cuisine. Having fallen in love with the place two years ago, they kept the restaurant's name and its uniqueness. Here, there's fish for everyone or a vegetarian dish.
Luckily, the island is full of fishermen, and the duo makes a point of cooking whole fish. On the menu, the agnolotti (stuffed ravioli) with langoustines makes our mouths water. We'd also love the scallop and mullet tarama. On the sweet side, Oléron fruits and local hazelnuts often play a starring role on the plate.
Fish Day, 3 rue de l'Ormeau, Saint-Denis-d'Oléron. Open Friday to Monday, lunch and dinner. Reservations: 05 46 75 76 21
Emma Gouaille
After visiting the pretty, colorful shacks, stop at Les Frits de mer. You can eat fresh fish breaded fish and chips style. They offer a variety of breadings, from classic to crispy, lemon-chive. You can choose from the house sauces: tartar, samurai, cocktail, and more.
For a change of pace, try the salmon burger or breaded chicken fillets. Desserts are simple and indulgent: chocolate mousse, rice pudding, or crème brûlée. Enjoy the pleasant terrace overlooking the harbor and citadel.
Les Frits de mer, avenue du Port, Château d'Oléron. Tel. 05 46 38 28 68. Open Tuesday to Sunday, closed Sunday evening. €15.80 for fish and chips, no extra charge
This is an extraordinary hotel. Nestled on the dunes of La Cotinière, the view of the Bay of Biscay is remarkable. There is direct access to the beach. Like a motel, all the rooms are on one level. Some have a terrace overlooking the bay. Some face the ocean, others the garden. You can savor the tranquility of the place.
This is a great opportunity to stroll along the customs officers' path at sunrise. You can enjoy the sauna, swimming pool, and tennis court available. The hotel doesn't have a restaurant, but it does offer a great grocery store with local products and a brilliant idea: barbecues and large tables are available on the dunes.
67 av. des Pins, in Saint-Pierre-d'Oléron 05 46 47 10 80. 42 rooms and suites
Emma Gouaille
Time seems to stand still in this family home, located in a small hamlet of Saint-Pierre. The farm has belonged to Philippe's family for at least ten generations. The cottage is named after his great-grandmother.
The Oléron native, who also happens to be a photographer, has cherished this renovated space with his sister for several years. "We chose the most natural and ecological materials possible," he says as he shows us the rooms decorated in light, soothing colors. Breakfast includes homemade pastries and wild fruit jams. It's also a great place to get surfing tips.
4 guest rooms and 1 gîte for 2 people available. 4 bis Place des Tilleuls, La Menounière in Saint-Pierre-d'Oléron. Tel. 06 79 83 99 21
Emma Gouaille
At the foot of the Chassiron lighthouse, Delphine and Pascal have found their little corner of paradise. Since 2019, they have been welcoming campers seeking peace and quiet and nature. Covering more than a hectare, there are 40 pitches. Some come with their tents, others with their campervans.
Still others fall for the pretty caravans that give the place a bohemian feel. Instead of foam parties and Zumba, the campsite hosts activities such as yoga, seaweed cooking classes, permaculture, etc. Facing the ocean, the "tiny café," a small wooden house on wheels, promises memorable aperitifs while watching the sunset.
