Health. Nail polish: why some will be banned from September 1st

The countdown has begun for nail professionals. Next week, they will no longer be able to use some of their products. Diphenyl trimethylbenzoyl phosphine oxide (TPO), a substance found in many semi-permanent nail polishes and gels, is banned from use as of September 1st. It will be prohibited "to place cosmetic products containing TPO on the market, to make these products available, including to professionals, and to use these products, particularly by professionals, as part of their services (nail polish application, manicures)," specifies the French Fraud Control Agency ( DGCCRF ).

Used in UV gels to harden nails, TPO was classified as a CMR category 1B substance, or toxic for reproduction, by European Regulation No. 2024-197, which therefore banned it from cosmetics. A second European Regulation No. 2025/977 extended the ban to its professional use.

For the nail salons concerned, this is a small revolution. Until now, TPO was authorized for professional use only in preparations for artificial nails at a maximum concentration of 5%. Enabling optimal hold of the product on the nail, it is found in particular in UV/LED construction gels (which allow the nail to be shaped), in semi-permanent varnishes, in certain UV bases or topcoats (which provide a protective layer and allow greater resistance) and sometimes in strengthening or coating products (to strengthen the nails).

The ban does not provide for any time limit for the disposal of stocks. Failure to comply with this prohibition obligation exposes professionals to several risks: administrative sanctions (temporary ban on operating, suspension of activity), fines, regulatory non-compliance, and the risk of liability in the event of damage or client exposure to a toxic substance.

TPO-free alternatives exist. But for small businesses, having to completely restock their stock can be difficult. In early July, the CEO of a brand supplying manicure equipment launched a petition calling for a six-month moratorium on the regulation's implementation on the mesopinions.com platform. With more than 19,000 signatures, the petition calls for a six-month delay for service providers in the nail, beauty and manicure sectors to sell off their stocks of products containing TPO purchased before August 31.

In the comments, several professionals expressed their dismay: "I just started my career as a nail technician, I have no budget and I'm going to have to throw everything away. I barely opened my business and I'm going to have to close it, it's unfair," we read. "I'm going to have to throw away three-quarters of my products on September 1st, this is a significant cost," laments another signatory. "We can't afford to spend hundreds of euros or more to change our inventory overnight," alarms a third.

In mid-July, Ardèche MP Hervé Saulignac alerted the Minister of Health to the issue in a written question. Highlighting "a significant economic loss for professionals in the sector," the elected official asked the government whether it intended to approach European authorities to obtain a transitional period and whether accompanying measures or administrative tolerance were being considered. To date, he has not received a response.