LVMH Prize 2025: Behind the Scenes of the Eurovision of Fashion
REPORT - In its twelve-year history, the French luxury group's competition for young designers has become the largest in the world. It's a sounding board and a major challenge for the eight finalists in the running.
This Wednesday morning, the auditorium of the Fondation Louis Vuitton looks like a TV studio. The technical teams are busy around a few racks set up in front of a long table and a dozen chairs. We are at the final of the LVMH Prize, the largest fashion competition in the world. Cameras and spotlights trained on them, feverish but excited, eight young designers first present their work, the best of their latest collections, to a handful of journalists. A few minutes later, they will appear before the most prestigious of juries: the artistic directors of the French luxury group, the crème de la crème of their peers, including Nicolas Ghesquière , head of Louis Vuitton's women's collections, Pharrell Williams , of the trunk maker's men's collections, Silvia Venturini Fendi for Fendi, Nigo for Kenzo, Sarah Burton for Givenchy , (it's her first participation), the independents Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo (LVMH has a minority investment in the latter's label). There is also Jean-Paul Claverie, director of patronage for the group, Sidney Toledano , advisor to Bernard Arnault and president of the LVMH Fashion Group, and above all, the creator of this competition launched in 2013, Delphine Arnault, CEO of Dior Couture.
A mix of "Top Chef" in terms of the prestige of its judges and Eurovision due to its international casting and worldwide broadcast via social networks, the benefits for the three winners go well beyond the three prizes at stake (400,000 euros for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers and 200,000 euros for the Karl Lagerfeld Prize and the Skills Prize). A significant financial boost, but for these independent designers, who don't count their hours and juggle several jobs to make ends meet, it's the mentorship of the LVMH teams that counts. Times are tough for the luxury industry right now, even for the big houses; so, what can we say about these young talents?
Skip the ad" If I win, I hope to be able to structure my business ," explains Alain Paul, the only French representative in the competition, a former dancer at the Marseille Opera, whose dance and movement inspire a wardrobe that is both fluid and structured. "For now, everyone who works with me is freelance. We don't have anyone full-time. The idea would be to structure the team and launch an accessories line. Not to mention the support of the LVMH group, their advice, which can help us in all areas: production, legislation, communication, and marketing. " So, backstage, while waiting for their "auditions," as the group's teams call them, the atmosphere is tense. Bollywood actress Deepika Padukone, Louis Vuitton muse and honorary juror, has arrived with no fewer than ten people. Dozens of hairstylists, makeup artists, agents, and assistants are waiting with their noses in their smartphones. The event's official photographer looks for a place to unload her cameras. The press officers pace. In their own little bubble, the creators wait in silence. Each will only have a few minutes to convince.
At lunch, rumors are rife. Apparently, Steve O Smith's microbusiness and couture creations have caught the eye of a few. We catch the Brit deep in conversation with his compatriot Sarah Burton. " His studio is in London ," explains the designer. "He cultivates a very unique approach to fashion, which begins with a brush and ink sketch, then ends with a unique garment, a faithful reproduction of the design with all its ups and downs. We talked a lot about his very particular manufacturing process. " A few minutes later, Steve O Smith leaves with the Karl Lagerfeld Prize.
We were very impressed by Torishéju's way of balancing disarming minimalism with extreme sophistication.
Nicolas Ghesquière, artistic director of Louis Vuitton's women's collections
The intense sincerity and feminine glamour of Torishéju's creations, tinged with the spirit of Savile Row, won the prize for craftsmanship. " We were all touched by her charisma," says Nicolas Ghesquière. "She had very few pieces, we're arriving very early in her career, but it's really the moment to support her. During her visit, her emotion and involvement were intense, but it wasn't just that. Her way of balancing disarming minimalism with extreme sophistication really impressed us. " " United Kingdom, twelve point s !" one might dare say.
Except that the winner of the LVMH Prize ultimately comes from... Japan. The day's big winner, Soshi Otsuki, defied all predictions thanks to the perfection of his very "Armani-esque" tailoring, crafted from magnificent fabrics made in his country. "He showed masculine silhouettes, but we can clearly see what his very personal tailoring can do on a woman ," enthuses Silvia Venturini Fendi. "We were all won over by his clear vision: he knows what he's doing and where he wants to go. " Thus, the thirty-year-old based in Tokyo, who struggles with English and is assisted by a translator, won all the votes. Presented by Delphine Arnault and Deepika Padukone, the shy Japanese man took to the stage to collect his trophy with suppressed emotion: "I would like to thank LVMH, the jury, and everyone who supported me." Not another word. The poor man's troubles aren't over yet: backstage, an army of journalists, present or on Zoom, are waiting for him...
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