Alex Docampo, dermatologist, on retinol: "It's photosensitive, yes, but it's not true that you can't use it in the summer."
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Retinol has become one of the star ingredients in facial care routines. Found in creams, serums, and dermatological treatments, this vitamin A derivative promises to improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles, and fade dark spots. However, numerous myths circulate about it, especially when summer arrives. One of the most widespread claims that its use should be suspended during the sunniest months.
Dermatologist Alex Docampo has sought to debunk this belief through a video published on his TikTok account. "The big lie about retinol," begins the specialist , who has thousands of followers on social media and has become one of the most active voices when it comes to disseminating information about dermatological health. In his speech, he clarifies that while this compound is photosensitive—that is, light can degrade it—it is not photosensitizing , which means that it does not cause skin damage on its own when exposed to the sun.
@alex.docampo.derma THIS is NOT TRUE about retinol and what it does to your skin #skincareroutine #skin #hyperpigmentation #retinol ♬ Aesthetic - Tollan Kim
Docampo explains that the confusion between the two terms has led many users to stop using it in the summer for fear of adverse effects. But, as she points out, there's no scientific evidence to justify this decision, as long as it's used properly. "Many dermatologists even prescribe it during the summer, specifically to treat dark spots," she states in the video.
The dermatologist reminds us that retinol, like any treatment that affects the skin, must be accompanied by good sun protection and avoid prolonged sun exposure. This isn't because the product is dangerous, but because excessive solar radiation can counteract the treatment's positive effects. "What we fix with retinol could be ruined with excessive sun exposure," he adds.
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For the expert, the demonization of retinol in the summer is partly due to commercial interests. "Many of those who tell you to stop using it during the summer are trying to sell you other products," he warns. That's why he insists that the best guide for skin care should be science, not marketing strategies.
Retinol works by accelerating cell renewal, which improves the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, spots, and even acne. However, its use can cause irritation in more sensitive skin, which is why it is recommended to introduce it gradually and, preferably, under medical supervision. Although it has traditionally been associated with winter nighttime routines, more and more experts agree that it can be used year-round , as long as it is accompanied by sun protection.
Several clinical studies have shown that retinoids, such as retinol and tretinoin, are light-sensitive—that is, they can break down upon exposure to sunlight—but this does not imply that they cause photosensitivity or phototoxic effects. In controlled trials, people using 0.05% tretinoin and exposed to UV radiation at various intensities did not experience an increase in sunburn or light-related adverse reactions.
El Confidencial