This is how beautiful Bali really is – a holiday between Instagram hype and tradition

Bali – the island where breathtaking landscapes, vibrant traditions, and hospitality converge. In the heart of Indonesia lies a paradise that captivates travelers from all over the world. However, there are no direct flights to the Indonesian island from Germany.

Instead, travelers reach their destinations via Singapore , Dubai , Istanbul, Doha, or Bangkok . Every minute, planes land at Bali's Ngurah Rai Airport and disembark hundreds of passengers. The arrivals hall is bustling with activity: exchange offices advertise their rates, tourists hustle their luggage toward the exit, and countless drivers loudly solicit customers in the humid air.

Public transportation is virtually nonexistent on the island, and taxis are rare. Ride-hailing services like Gojek and Grab are therefore the cheapest and most practical way to get around. The Balinese version of Uber offers rides via app for a fixed price. While this price fluctuates depending on the time of day and passenger volume, at least travel time isn't a factor—which is fortunate given the slow traffic.

Bali's roads are often slow-moving.

Source: IMAGO/Wirestock

Leaving the airport, it quickly becomes clear: patience is key in Bali. There are tons of vehicles, but inadequate infrastructure. During rush hour, cars creep past international fast-food chains, traditional artisans, and mobile food stalls at an agonizingly slow pace. The first person to drive or honk has the right of way—and this works surprisingly well. Accidents? None. Although there are numerous car and scooter rental companies, it's best to leave the driving on Bali's busy streets to those who know the area. Especially if you're not used to driving on the left.

In the southeast of the island, about an hour from the airport, lies Sukawati. Nearly 110,000 people live in this 55-square-kilometer district, of which there are 57 in total on Bali. The village of the same name is known for its handicrafts, especially goldsmithing.

If you're looking to buy handmade jewelry, this is the place to be. If you spend a few days in the area, you can even make your own: Some goldsmiths offer courses where they share their knowledge, provide the necessary tools, and help with the practical implementation. A bracelet, ring, or pendant, for example, can be made in just a few hours—even as a novice.

Omnipresent: The Hindu temples in Bali.

Source: Michèle Förster

Sukawati is hardly developed for tourism, with relatively few hotels and accommodations. Instead, there are rows of laundries, small supermarkets, banks, and food stalls, each with its tempting aromas. Stray dogs and cats wait patiently for something to eat.

Warung are the simple stalls or mobile food stands where Balinese people buy food. Delicacies such as nasi goreng (fried rice), ayam goreng (fried chicken), satay (meat skewers), or bakso (balls made of fine beef paste) are prepared on a gas-fired stove.

A wok, a gas stove – and delicious food is ready.

Source: Michèle Förster

Meat traditionally plays a major role in Balinese cuisine – the favorite dish of many locals is babi guling, a highly spiced, spit-cooked suckling pig . The dish is not only served at celebrations and gatherings as a sign of hospitality, but is also an important part of religious ceremonies. And the reason for its belly, as Wayan, one of the gojek drivers, explains to me with a laugh: The crispy skin is simply delicious.

But there are also options for fans of vegetarian and vegan cuisine. Nasi and mie goreng—fried rice or noodles with vegetables and egg—cost only 25,000 rupees, the equivalent of €1.50, at most warungs. A must-try is gado-gado , a lukewarm salad with steamed vegetables, crispy tempeh, and spicy peanut sauce.

The vegetarian dish Gado-Gado.

Source: Michèle Förster

After a refreshing break, it's 30 minutes to Ubud , the vibrant heart of Bali. Exotic nature, congested streets, Hindu temples, and hip boutiques coexist here with great confidence. To truly experience the city, you should plan at least two days. Among the most famous attractions is the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary , a nature reserve home to around 1,200 long-tailed macaques.

Monkeys are considered sacred animals in Bali, so it's only right that these primates pick each other's lice on temple roofs, engage in wrestling matches on statues of saints, and plunder the ubiquitous offering bowls, the canang sari, in search of food. Anyone visiting the Monkey Forest should therefore follow a few rules: Don't bring any food, don't wear conspicuous jewelry, and don't make eye contact with the monkeys. And don't crouch. Better safe than sorry.

The monkey forest is one of the highlights of Ubud.

Source: Michèle Förster

A road connects the Monkey Forest to the bustling market in the city center. From jewelry and clothing to basketry and wooden masks and even refrigerator magnets, there's nothing you won't find here. Haggling over the price is part of the experience; often, half the stated amount is realistic.

Anyone needing to cool off after tough negotiations should try fresh coconut water. Or take a detour to the nearest waterfall . Among the most famous are Kanto Lampo and Tegenungan . Both are quickly accessible by scooter, look spectacular—and are hopelessly crowded. Things are a bit more relaxed at Tukad Cepung Waterfall, which is located in a gorge and offers a breathtaking view thanks to the sunlight. The only drawback: the drive from Ubud takes about 1.5 hours.

Haggling over prices is part of the market experience.

Source: Michèle Förster

If you want to go hiking or jogging, the early morning is the best time. It's already light at 6 a.m., but the temperatures are still pleasant. Ubud's most beautiful hiking trail is the Campuhan Ridge Walk, which starts about one kilometer west of the market in the town center.

The nine-kilometer-long trail begins at a Hindu temple and leads past rice fields, lush vegetation, and small villages. Bringing a drink is recommended. While there are a few cafes along the trail, most don't open until 9 a.m. However, the stop is definitely worth it for a breakfast break with a special view.

Early in the morning, the Campuhan Ridge Walk is still empty.

Source: Michèle Förster

Ubud is also a yoga hotspot. Countless studios have settled around the town, some nestled amidst palm gardens. Like The Yoga Barn , known far beyond Indonesia's borders, these traditional bamboo houses, surrounded by meter-high banana plants, offer an oasis of calm in the bustling city.

A variety of classes take place daily—from Fly High Yoga to breathing exercises, Ecstatic Dance, and sound baths, as well as meditation and classic Vinyasa classes. Anyone interested can simply join in; the studio lends out mats and props. However, be prepared for busy classes: a yoga class with 50 other people is not uncommon here.

Breakfast in the countryside: There are several cafes along the Campuhan Ridge Walk.

Source: Michèle Förster

At dawn, we head toward the volcanic mountains south of Amed on nearly empty roads. Bali's east is more authentic, simpler, and less touristy. People mill around the warungs on their mopeds, receiving their breakfast in small plastic bags or banana leaves.

After a good two hours' drive, I reach Mount Lempuyang. At an altitude of 600 meters lies the Pura Penataran Lempuyang temple, better known to many as the Gate of Heaven . It is one of Bali's most important Hindu temples. Through its ornate entrance gate, one can see the sacred Mount Agung.

The gate of Lempuyang Temple has become famous through photos on social media.

Source: Michèle Förster

However, there's not much sacredness attached to the place anymore – thanks to Instagram, the Gate of Heaven has become a magnet for visitors. For 115,000 rupees (6.75 euros), you're taken from the parking lot to the foot of the temple in a shuttle bus, equipped with a sarong, and given a number that tells you when it's your turn to pose. Photos are taken by staff – using a small mirror under the smartphone camera to create the impression that the gate is submerged in water.

Recordings have to be interrupted repeatedly to allow worshippers to enter the temple. Today is Puja Wali , a special Hindu festival. Loaded with offerings such as flowers, fruit, and cakes, Balinese families climb the long staircase to the entrance. The announced two-hour wait quickly turns into three or four. Whether it's truly worth it is in the eye of the beholder.

This is what the famous Gate of Heaven really looks like.

Source: Michèle Förster

After the flood of impressions, I long for peace and quiet and just doing nothing on the beach. So, I head to the Padang Bai harbor. From there, speedboats depart for Lombok and the Gili Islands.

The trip to Gili Trawangan , the largest of the three islands, takes about two hours – depending on the order in which you visit the ports. A white sandy beach and turquoise water greet me at the pier. With a bit of luck, you might spot the first turtles curiously poking their heads out of the water.

The sea off the island of Gili Trawangan is turquoise blue.

Source: Michèle Förster

It's quiet; no cars or scooters are allowed on the island. At just six square kilometers, they would be superfluous anyway. Instead, there are horse-drawn carriages and bicycles that can be rented on every corner. Small shops, tattoo studios, and numerous bars line the streets along the beach, rock and reggae music blaring from the speakers. Gili T, as some people call the island, is known for its beautiful diving and snorkeling spots, in addition to its nightlife.

And indeed: just a few meters from the eastern beach, the coral reefs begin; you can't miss them. Equipped with a waterproof case for my phone, I set out in search of the most exotic fish. And then, in the shallow water, two giant turtles suddenly swim past me—perhaps on their way to Sydney. In any case, I swim after them.

A dream came true: I swam with turtles off Gili Trawangan.

Source: Michèle Förster

The busiest area in the evening is the Night Market, not far from the harbor. Under a corrugated iron roof, rows of stalls grill fish and shellfish, offer fresh juices and smoothies, and sell cakes. I opt for Cap Cay , a broth with stir-fried vegetables. For dessert, there's Klepon , a traditional sweet. These green balls are made from rice flour and pandan palm extract, have a center of liquid palm sugar, and are coated with shredded coconut. Simply delicious!

In the beach bars, musicians play cover songs from Pink Floyd to Ed Sheeran. Those who prefer to pick up the microphone themselves are in good hands at the Lava Bar. Karaoke, local Bintang beer, and delicious cocktails are available until midnight – then the party crowd moves on.

Lobster, mussels, fish: The night market on Gili Trawangan is a must for seafood fans.

Source: Michèle Förster

Back on Bali, I head west; Canggu will be the last stop on my trip. The wide streets are lined with boutiques, restaurants, and hotels. Canggu has become the hippest part of the island – surfers, partygoers, and expats flock here in droves. The infrastructure offers several amenities: fitness and yoga studios alternate with chic bars, and the culinary offerings leave nothing to be desired. Vegan, keto, Italian, French, fusion cuisine – it almost feels like being in Prenzlauer Berg.

In the early morning, the beach is mostly crowded with joggers and dog walkers. As soon as the first waves form, the surfers arrive. Anyone who wants to try surfing for themselves can choose from countless surf schools .

The instructors first demonstrate on the beach how to push yourself up onto the board and maintain your balance. Then you get into the water, and you have to try not to be discouraged by the fact that everything suddenly becomes ten times more unstable and strenuous. The feeling of success when you finally manage it after numerous falls is all the greater.

You can always see surfers and dogs on Canggu Beach.

Source: Michèle Förster

The best way to recover from the exertions of such a course is to lounge on a sun lounger, for example at The Loloan . The friendly team welcomes visitors warmly, serves fresh coconuts, and has a soft spot for stray dogs seeking a shady spot under the umbrellas.

The beach doesn't really get crowded until the evening, though. On Bali's west coast, you can watch the sun slowly sink into the sea, bathing everything in warm colors. Blankets are spread out, friends gather, and the scent of grilled corn on the cob fills the air. On my last evening, the sky glows in the most magnificent shades of red and purple; the sheer magnitude of the beauty is almost incomprehensible. I finish my beer and know that this sunset won't be the last. I would return to Bali again and again.

The sunsets in Canggu are magical.

Source: Michèle Förster

Looking for more inspiration? You can find tips for all the top travel destinations at reisereporter .