From the currywurst border to the tortilla dispute: These are the culinary borders in Europe
Food unites – but sometimes it also divides. Within countries and regions, there are invisible culinary boundaries that manifest themselves in specific preferences and dishes. They demonstrate how deeply food is interwoven with culture, history, and tradition.
Those who travel to think outside the box can discover fascinating differences in places like Germany, Italy, or Spain. A true delight for foodies—or, on the contrary, a complete culinary aberration.
The so-called Weißwurst Equator runs roughly along the Main River and divides northern Germany from the south in culinary terms. While in Bavaria, the Weißwurst with sweet mustard and pretzels is a culinary sanctuary, in the northern states it remains a rather marginal phenomenon. This leads directly to the next culinary border within the Federal Republic.
Bavarian white sausage with mustard is one of the iconic dishes that is more commonly found in southern Germany.
Source: IMAGO/Zoonar
The Currywurst is a subject of debate—both regarding its preparation and its origins. Some are still certain that this German cultural treasure originated in Berlin, while others claim it clearly originated in the Ruhr region.
The currywurst is said to have been born in Duisburg as early as 1936, 13 years before Herta Heuwer's sausage in Berlin, at least that's what the 2024 book "Alles Currywurst – oder was? Die ganze Wahrheit über das Kultobjekt" (Everything Currywurst – or what? The whole truth about the cult object) by Gregor Lauenburger and Tim Koch says.
The currywurst is one of the most famous German snack dishes.
Source: IMAGO/Depositphotos
One thing is certain: the love for this specialty is great in the northwest, while enthusiasm seems more subdued in the southeast, where the classic bratwurst or white sausage dominates. So, it shouldn't surprise anyone in Erfurt if they are served a sliced bratwurst with curry sauce. That wouldn't happen in Hanover, for example, where the currywurst consists of a boiled pork sausage, just like the original!
The Röstigraben (in French: "barrière de rösti") is a metaphor for the linguistic and political divide between German- and French-speaking Switzerland. This socio-cultural border, which was already a topic of discussion during the First World War, runs geographically along the Saane River in the canton of Fribourg, according to the "Historical Dictionary of Switzerland."
The name is based on culinary stereotypes: While Rösti is considered a traditional dish in German-speaking Switzerland, French-inspired dishes such as fondue or ratatouille dominate in French-speaking Switzerland. In 2014, the Vindonissa Museum proposed recognizing the Röstigraben as UNESCO intangible cultural heritage, but this proposal was not implemented, as the online portal "Swiss Info" reported at the time. The metaphor, however, remains in use – unlike the less established term "Polentagraben" for the border with Italian-speaking Switzerland.
Rösti with mushroom sauce is one of the specialties in Switzerland.
Source: IMAGO/Pond5 Images
Polenta, however, remains a topic of discussion. In Italy, a culinary divide runs between the north and south of the country. While polenta is a staple food in the north, especially in Lombardy and Piedmont, pasta reigns supreme in central and southern Italy. This divide stems from traditional agricultural practices: The north relied on corn cultivation, while the south primarily cultivated wheat.
Polenta with potatoes and mushrooms is a traditional dish from the province of Cuneo in the northern Italian region of Piedmont.
Source: IMAGO/Dreamstime
Spain is known for its tortilla de patatas. But there's a crucial question about the Spanish potato omelet, which locals even call "de cuñados" (in-law debate): with or without onions?
The Spanish newspaper "El Mundo" investigated this controversy in a 2021 survey. According to the report, around 73 percent of respondents preferred the sweeter version with onions. However, according to the report, the original was made without onions, and it is unclear whether the survey was truly representative.
Two regions claim to be the birthplace of the dish: Villanueva de la Serena in the western Spanish region of Extremadura and the northern Spanish region of Navarra. There's even a World Tortilla Day, celebrated on March 9th. Anyone served an omelet on that day should adapt to regional customs, as its consistency also varies from region to region.
In the south, the tortilla is served well-fried, while in other parts of the country it remains soft and often does not contain any onions.
Tortilla de patata is one of Spain's national dishes. Some prefer it soft (pictured), others prefer it well-cooked.
Source: IMAGO/Dreamstime
Here, the tortilla de patata is cooked well. Whether it should be prepared with or without onions is one of those debates travelers are better off not getting involved in.
Source: IMAGO/Depositphotos
If you're in the mood for a snack or a small appetizer in Spain, you order what are known as tapas. Traditionally, these were simple bites like olives, cheese, or ham on a slice of bread, which was covered by a glass to keep out insects (hence the name "tapar" = "to cover").
Today, snacks come in countless variations – hot or cold, simple or sophisticated. Among the typical appetizers, usually served with drinks in bars and restaurants, are patatas bravas (fried potatoes with spicy sauce), albóndigas (meatballs in tomato sauce), gambas al ajillo (shrimp in garlic oil), and pulpo (octopus) – and the tortilla. Those who go from bar to bar, snacking on a few tapas, are participating in a tradition called "tapeo."
But not all tapas are created equal. Here, too, there are differences between north and south. In the Basque Country, these snacks are called pintxos or pinchos. This is due to the fact that they are traditionally pierced with a small skewer (pincho). Of course, this isn't the case with every pincho, but only when several ingredients need to be held together. When ordering, however, you should make sure to order pinchos.
Incidentally, the National Pinchos and Tapas Competition and the Tapas World Championship take place annually in November in the city of Valladolid. Spain became world champions in 2024. The victory went to the "Pucela Roll" by Teo Rodríguez of the Trasto restaurant in Valladolid, who also won the 2023 national competition. The pincho was a puff pastry spiral filled with suckling lamb stew with kare raisu, demi-glace, and pistachios.
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