7 sunscreen mistakes dermatologist Dr. Emi Arpa would never make
According to dermatologist Dr. Emi Arpa: Almost everyone makes these mistakes when applying sunscreen – and here's how to improve it.
The importance of wearing sunscreen to reduce the risk of skin cancer and slow down the signs of aging is well known. But be honest: Do you really do it every day, 365 days a year – rain or shine – as recommended by dermatologists? "In my daily practice and from my community, I hear again and again that many people shy away from it despite being aware of it. Out of fear of pimples . Or simply because they don't like the sticky, greasy feeling that many sunscreens leave behind," says dermatologist Dr. Emi Arpa , who runs her own practice in Berlin and a skincare brand under her name.
Arpa has therefore set itself the task of developing its own sunscreen that feels so light that you'll want to use it every day: "Formulating sunscreen with a high SPF that still feels light is truly the pinnacle of excellence, because modern, high-performance UV filters like the ones we use are particularly difficult to integrate into formulas because they essentially only dissolve in oil," says Dr. Emi Arpa, continuing: "With Daily Defense, we've achieved this. They are two ultra-light fluids, one with SPF 30 and one with SPF 50, both of which absorb super quickly, are non-greasy, and don't clog pores."
But even the very best sunscreen is useless if you don't use it correctly. That's why Arpa shares 7 mistakes you would never make and how to improve.
7 sun protection mistakes dermatologist Dr. Emi Arpa would never makeSunscreen Mistake No. 1: Not using sunscreen every day
No matter the weather and whether you're indoors or outdoors, you should apply sunscreen every single morning. "The biggest mistake I see all the time is not using SPF every day. Many people think they don't need sunscreen when it's cloudy and they're in the car or office. However, up to 80 percent of long-wave UVA rays penetrate clouds and window glass," says the dermatologist, continuing: "In our practice, we perform many laser treatments, after which you really have to pay meticulous attention to sun protection. I repeatedly experience that patients who have had a CO2 laser and spend a lot of time sitting in their cars end up with pigment spots on one side, despite informed consent. Namely, on the left side, i.e., on the side facing the window."
Sunscreen Mistake No. 2: Using Too Little Sunscreen
"The amount really makes a difference," says Dr. Arpa. "Most people simply use way, way, way too little sunscreen. I always have that Gwyneth Paltrow video in my head... I would always recommend sticking to the two-finger rule for your face (a strip of sunscreen the length of your index and middle fingers). If you're doing the neck and décolletage, even three fingers," says Dr. Emi Arpa.
Sunscreen Mistake No. 3: Not Reapplying
Anyone who applies SPF 30 or SPF 50 properly, i.e., in the recommended amount, still has sufficient protection during a midday office routine – in theory. However, according to Dr. Emi Arpa, it's important to remember that sunscreen can also be rubbed off by sweat and friction. "For example, if you keep putting on and taking off your sunglasses. Or because you touch your face a lot," she explains, continuing: "On warm days and with a high UV index, I therefore reapply sunscreen every few hours in my daily practice routine, which is comparable to many people's daily office routine, to maintain protection. Of course, it's even more important to reapply sunscreen regularly if you spend a lot of time outdoors."
Sure, your makeup can suffer from the second or third layer. Dr. Emi Arpa therefore recommends patting the SPF in rather than rubbing it in. "However, this won't completely prevent it from wearing off. So if in doubt, you just have to reapply a little more makeup or use an SPF spray or powder to adjust the application."
Sunscreen Mistake No. 4: Relying on Day Cream or Makeup with SPF
"To truly achieve the stated protection on a product, it's crucial to use a sufficient amount," explains Dr. Emi Arpa, reminding us of the two-finger rule. So, here's the question for you: Do you use two finger lengths of foundation or day cream on your face? If not, and that's probably the case, the SPF in the product won't provide you with the stated protection. "Additionally, makeup or day cream usually only has an SPF of 15," says Dr. Emi Arpa. She therefore recommends separating skincare and skin protection. "I would always recommend applying skincare first, then SPF, and then makeup."
Sunscreen Mistake No. 5: Forgetting the Most Important Areas
According to Dr. Emi Arpa, the details matter when applying sunscreen. These include the ears, the skin above the eyebrows, the bridge of the nose, the lips, cheekbones, décolleté , and the back of the hands. "These are the so-called sun terraces, which are exposed to the sun and where, as a dermatologist, I often excise skin cancer," says Dr. Emi Arpa. And it's particularly complicated in these vulnerable areas: "Especially with melanoma, a safety margin of 0.5 to 1 centimeter must be maintained, which is a difficult undertaking on delicate structures like the auricle." Dr. Emi Arpa therefore recommends applying sunscreen particularly thoroughly on the sun terraces and focusing particularly on them when reapplying sunscreen.
Sunscreen Mistake No. 6: Not Protecting Your Lips from the Sun
According to the dermatologist, the lower lip is also one of the aforementioned sun terraces, as it is exposed to the sun. "In addition, the skin on the lips plays a special role as the border zone between the mucous membrane and normal skin. Here, we have hardly any calluses, no sweat or sebaceous glands—and therefore much less natural protection." According to Dr. Arpa, this is why lips not only quickly develop skin cancer, which is also difficult to remove—remember the safety margin—but also quickly develop wrinkles. And: "Cold sores are also often triggered by UV exposure and adequate sun protection," says Dr. Emi Arpa. The dermatologist therefore recommends using lip care with integrated sun protection 365 days a year.
"Nourishing Lip Tint SPF 50" in the shade "Cosmic Crush" by Dr. Emi Arpa
"The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser" by Dr. Emi Arpa
Sunscreen mistake no. 7: Not washing off the SPF thoroughly in the evening
As important as using sunscreen is, it's equally crucial to thoroughly wash the SPF off the skin in the evening. "I have many patients whose skin condition worsens in the summer. In dermatology, we refer to this as so-called Mallorca acne," says the dermatologist, explaining the development of sunscreen pimples as follows: "Heat increases blood flow, including that of the sebaceous glands, and thus sebum production. In addition, you naturally sweat more – sunscreen then quickly becomes occlusive, like a film layer." Therefore, it's important for anyone prone to sunscreen pimples to opt for a lighter fluid instead of a greasy cream and to thoroughly wash off the SPF – whether greasy or light-based – in the evening with a shower gel and facial cleanser . The latter, according to the dermatologist, is also recommended for areas such as the back and décolleté, where sebaceous gland activity is particularly active.
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